Phil Lees feels his way through the SBS back catalogue - and contemplates lamb mechoui the size of Maeve O'Meara's hands - in an attempt to lower the bar for the home-cook and spread a wave of culinary underwhelmingness.
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I've always harboured the sneaking suspicion that food television only exists to raise people's expectations about food so high that they are too afraid to cook at home just in case the televised recipe goes pear-shaped, and thus instead go out and buy whatever prepared foods are advertised between the program segments. Which got me thinking: perhaps if I can replicate the results as seen on TV, then maybe I can singularly lower the bar for the home-cook and spread a wave of culinary underwhelmingness.
I'm no professional in the kitchen. The food industry jobs that I've managed to hold down (that don’t involve writing) can be typified as either agricultural or industrial, and nothing beyond the sort of job that if you applied yourself, you could learn well before morning tea. I like to think that I'm proficient at cooking but don't have the superb economy of movement that typifies a good chef, or the ability to control a team of good chefs like a truly great chef. My skill lies in being able to recognize these traits in others.
Mechoui
Mechoui is the Arabic word for "cooked over fire". You can use it equally to describe a salad of roasted vegetables or a whole spit-roasted camel, if the mood (or in the case of the camel, madness) takes you. The essential ingredient and single constant is flame; whatever you place over that fire is fair game. Mechoui does tend to be associated with cooking huge chunks of (and where possible, whole) lamb over an open fire, rubbed with the earthy North African spices indigenous to whichever burg in North Africa whence you find yourself.
In series one of Food Safari, Maeve O'Meara hits up Aziz Bakhalla of Manly's Alhambra Restaurant for his lamb mechoui recipe and while this site has the recipe for it, you'll notice in the video clip that Aziz is liberal in his interpretation. How many of Aziz's handfuls of cumin or paprika equates to an exact tablespoon?
I briefly considered phoning SBS to see if I could get in touch with Maeve. Maybe I could call up Maeve and ask her "how large are your hands?". From this I could make a rough comparison of her hand size to Aziz's and mine, and get some more accurate measure.
Failing this I followed the recipe.

As you can see I don't have the suggested cut of lamb. I've bought a weird cut that happens when the butcher can't be bothered slicing lamb chops into pieces. And I missed photographing the coriander, salt and oil. I mixed the ingredients and marinated.
One thing that I own and tend to lord over my fellow barbecue aficionados is a small rotisserie. It consists of a small steel drum with a hobby motor attached to turn the spit, just large enough to fit multiple chickens but too small for a whole suckling pig. Once you've eaten from the rotisserie, all other forms of roasting without fire are rendered meaningless. So after a few hours of lazy marination, I stuck the lamb on the spit.
After an hour rotating, I realized that I'd added a new element to the recipe, rendering it once again unattainable to the bulk of readers without a rotisserie, repeating the same central dilemma of food TV. But it was all the more delicious.
Does anyone cook these recipes? If you're cooking through the SBS back catalogue (and in particular, mechoui), let me know in the comments.Comments (4)
Don't agree!
Personally I love watching people cook on TV and then trying the recipes. It gives me a chance to watch for the trouble spots before trying it myself. I cook it totally exact the first time and then make changes as needed after that. If people are too afraid that's them not the TV show. Cooking requires bravery. The best part of doing it at home is you can do it at your own pace. I personally like to chop everything first. That's my way. Be brave people!!
05 Jun 2008 0:57 AEST
From: Canberra
well i try
I try to cook from cooking shows but no matter whether i follow a recipe or just go with how i think it is done i always end up changing them to suit how i cook or what i can afford. Yes i admit my saffron rice has two ingredients neither is saffron but i enjoy improvising. While my dishes never look like how they come out on tv i am trying. My biggest challenge is to try and make the perfect vegetarian laksa and i will have to keep trying to perfect that.
09 May 2008 22:01 AEST
From: Melbourne
09 May 2008 15:49 AEST
From: Crows Nest
Haha I never realised I steered away from cooking TV cooking show recipes, but I do seem to subconciously avoid cooking them cos I don't think I can cut it...
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About this Blog
A blog about what the world eats, when and where it eats it, and why it matters to us all. Only much less ambitious than that sounds and with more excruciating puns.
Phil Lees grew up in rural Victoria, the first generation in his family to not have lived on the farm and thereby not slaughter their own meat.
In 2005 he moved to Cambodia and started the nation’s first food blog, Phnomenon.com, named after the best pun that he has ever made. It turns out that Cambodian food is delicious and unlike the warnings in most guidebooks, is not likely to kill you with any immediacy. Gridskipper called him a “national treasure”. Lonely Planet’s Greater Mekong guide called him “the unofficial pimp of Cambodian cuisine”. The New York Times laughed at a funny hotdog he saw.
Phil makes a mean sausage, a hoppy pale ale, a modest laksa. He owns three barbecues and is in the market for a fourth.
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