Mouthful

What in the world are you eating?

The Taco Truck Wars

14 May 2008 | 10:01 - By Phil Lees

Without Californian taco trucks, there's a good chance that Phil Lees would be dead.

While I was living in California as a student in the heady days when the US had a more responsible fiscal manager in the White House, the Australian dollar languished around 50 cents to the US dollar. On my meager savings, this meant that there was a thin line between me eating protein recognizable as meat when a weird cut went on special at Ralph's supermarket due to a salmonella scare ("This week: Miscellaneous Necks!") and adopting the recent immigrant diet of beans, rice and tortillas.

My housemates were somewhat horrified when I ate the Halloween pumpkin.

My small reprieve from the malnutrition was the local taco truck whose main clientele were the local immigrant workers on a survival level diet with the taste for a piece of home. I was introduced to the forbidden pleasure of the chiccarones taco, a taco singularly filled with fried pork crackling. I developed a theory that if the taco truck didn't offer cabeza (roasted cow head) then the van was not worth its garish paintjob, even if you had no plan to eat said cow or the van had it on the menu but didn't actually ever serve it. I came to suspect that it was a simple code to differentiate between the good taco truck and the evil. This is the sort of madness induced by access to meat after unwillingly enduring a low protein diet.

It is hard for me to think of a more iconic Californian food experience than chowing down on a fresh taco with a squeeze of lime, served from a vehicle that is essentially immobile. The average truck rarely moves and if it does, then there is a good chance that it will return to the same place the following day for a few hours of slinging tacos and burritos to the masses. So it was with nothing but unmitigated horror that I discovered that the Los Angeles Board of Supervisors has passed new regulations that will effectively eliminate the taco truck from the streets of LA, signing what could have been my personal death warrant. From the LA Times:

Though taco trucks have long been regulated by the county, the previous law carried only a $60 fine for parking in one spot longer than 30 minutes. Many vendors who got citations simply treated them as a cost of doing business.

The revised law, to take effect May 15, allows mobile eateries to stay put for an hour. But if they fail to move after that they can be slapped with a criminal misdemeanor and face a fine of up to $1,000 or even six months in jail.

While currently the law only covers the 65% of Los Angeles that is unincorporated, it sets a grim precedent for the rest of city (and state). Much of the reasoning for the criminalization of mobile Mexican cuisine is that the taco trucks threaten the livelihoods of bricks-and-mortar restaurants, which is an entirely true and accurate appraisal on the state of the LA restaurant scene: the bulk of sit-down establishments can't compete with a guy in a truck.

See also: Save Our Taco Trucks, The Great Taco Hunt

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Comments (6)

04 Jun 2008 21:31 AEST

Donna

From: Concord

tacos in Sydney

The only reasonable place to get tacos in sydney are in newtown's guzman y gomez-nothing really beats this particular taco truck in san francisco called angelica's. it is too bad that mexican food is a lost art in Australia

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24 May 2008 10:59 AEST

Phil Lees

From: Melbourne

Tacos in Australia

I hesitate to recommend eating tacos anywhere in Australia - but would love to be proven wrong. I tend to cook them from scratch at home and substitute in feta for queso fresco which is the only ingredient not readily available (if you're prepared to make your own tortillas instead of eating the preserved variety on sale here). For a recipe book, I'd heartily recommend Cocina De La Familia by Marilyn Tausend.

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22 May 2008 16:21 AEST

The Hammer

From: Randwick

Tacos in Australia

Hey Phil, Where do you get good (and I mean authentic) tacos in Australia? Sydney has had a few trendy little franchises opened recently that purport to be the real deal, but from what I gather these are just Taco Bell for the inner-city set. I worked in a Tex Mex kicthen for many years In Sydney, so I can attest to the melted-cheese-lettuce-and-corn-chip disaster area that is Australian Mexican cuisine, and I have always wondered when we'd get good at it, or at least try...

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19 May 2008 23:11 AEST

Phil Lees

From: Melbourne

Cheers all

I don't have any solid plans for the next destination. Any suggestions?

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18 May 2008 13:24 AEST

Helen

From: Wodonga

Where to next?

I need to travel to LA to experience these Tacos. Where to next ? I will follow your food experiences with interest.

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14 May 2008 20:48 AEST

John

From: Melbourne

LA losing its soul

I travel to LA fairly often and would hate to see the decline of the "roach coach" - some days the taco truck is the only place that you can get a "real" meal in LA - otherwise you've got to resort to one bland chain restaurant or the other.

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About this Blog

A blog about what the world eats, when and where it eats it, and why it matters to us all. Only much less ambitious than that sounds and with more excruciating puns.

Phil Lees grew up in rural Victoria, the first generation in his family to not have lived on the farm and thereby not slaughter their own meat.

In 2005 he moved to Cambodia and started the nation’s first food blog, Phnomenon.com, named after the best pun that he has ever made. It turns out that Cambodian food is delicious and unlike the warnings in most guidebooks, is not likely to kill you with any immediacy. Gridskipper called him a “national treasure”. Lonely Planet’s Greater Mekong guide called him “the unofficial pimp of Cambodian cuisine”. The New York Times laughed at a funny hotdog he saw.

Phil makes a mean sausage, a hoppy pale ale, a modest laksa. He owns three barbecues and is in the market for a fourth. He’s never eaten at a Michelin-starred restaurant. There is more important food in the world to be eaten.

 
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