Finding slivovka in someone else’s food history
Unearthing Slovenian food from what somebody left behind

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I moved house last week and I’m beginning to reconstruct the food history of its owner through the fragments that he left behind. It's my own pathology rather than him abandoning anything edible.
The previous owner built the house when he was young in the early 1940s and lived in it until his death. From the name on the title, he was from the Balkans which is about as much as I want to establish about him concretely without crossing the line into stalking and a relative taking out a restraining order. But for some reason, I can't stay away from establishing how he ate. Maybe it has something to do with the French gastronome Brillat-Savarin's aphorism about being what you eat.
Maybe it is a remnant of my obsessive childhood interest in unearthing dinosaurs.
The kitchen had barely been used; I doubt that the oven had even been opened in years. It is the first time that I have ever seen a build up of dust on the inside of an installed oven. It was bought in the late 1960s but there is no patina of black filth; the rotisserie attachment within has never pierced flesh and looks as it did the day that it came home from the showroom. Parts of the previous oven from the early 1940s, a megalith in enamel-coated cast iron, were dismantled and buried in the back yard. There are parts missing. I tried to rebuild it as an archeological exhibit and failed.
Along with the iron oven, in the backyard he left behind a whole orchard: two healthy apricots, a struggling disfigured lemon, a fig, tamarillo, nectarine and 12 plum trees. What does somebody do with a vast quantity of plums, all coming into season in a single hit?
A single bottle of homemade plum brandy was secreted under the bench in the mouldering garage and tucked away in the corner of the only internal cupboard inside the house were two mini bar-sized bottles of the Slovenian plum brandy, slivovka. One has a crane in flight on the bottle and no other hints to its origin; the other emblazoned with the logo of Turististično Društvo Dimnice Slivje. From what I can gather from Google Translate, the label on the second refers to the tourist society for the smoking cave in the village of Slivje, Slovenia. I can only surmise that the plums on the bottle refer to plum brandy and the town's logo.
Slivovka is made by crushing and fermenting plums and some of their kernels in a vessel for a few months. Some recipes specify the use of whole plums, others recommend pitting and crushing the fruit to a pulp. The resulting purple alcoholic mash is then distilled and clarified, the eventual liquor coming out at a hefty 50% alcohol. An identical plum brandy is made across Central and Eastern Europe. It does not taste much like plums but does give the sensation of being set alight from the inside.
Home distillation of alcohol in Australia is illegal without an excise license. You can own a still with a capacity of up to five litres, use it to purify water or make essential oils and do anything but make tasty slivovka with it. As soon as you make booze, you must procure a license and owe the Australian Government 65 dollars per litre of pure alcohol. I'd love to know how this is policed by the Tax Office.
So I've moved into the house of an expatriate Slovenian bootlegger. He didn't eat much but drank well.
Comments (2)
There must be some sort of baked dish that uses plums?
Or perhaps not...? Either way, an entertaining read, Phil. Can't wait to see the place myself.
27 Feb 2009 15:49 AEST
From: Sydney
Don't forget the moral panic tax
And if you mixed the Slivovka with red bull and coke you'd have to pay even more tax as a alcopop. The resulting concoction would still be less sweet than the commercial competitors.
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A blog about what the world eats, when and where it eats it, and why it matters to us all. Only much less ambitious than that sounds and with more excruciating puns.
Phil Lees grew up in rural Victoria, the first generation in his family to not have lived on the farm and thereby not slaughter their own meat.
In 2005 he moved to Cambodia and started the nation’s first food blog, Phnomenon.com, named after the best pun that he has ever made. It turns out that Cambodian food is delicious and unlike the warnings in most guidebooks, is not likely to kill you with any immediacy. Gridskipper called him a “national treasure”. Lonely Planet’s Greater Mekong guide called him “the unofficial pimp of Cambodian cuisine”. The New York Times laughed at a funny hotdog he saw.
Phil makes a mean sausage, a hoppy pale ale, a modest laksa. He owns three barbecues and is in the market for a fourth.
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03 Mar 2009 18:34 AEST
Austin
From: Bangkok