Inside the Vatican

28 September 2009 | 0:00 - By John Birmingham

From the search for a tiny tile in a Vatican mosaic, John Birmingham imagines city states rising again and freeing the shackles of nations.

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There is a small, intimate moment early on during Inside the Vatican where Gabriela the Mosaic repairman searches for a tile from the Vatican's collection of mosaic tiles.

Tasked with maintaining and restoring the monumental artworks soaring high above the marble floor of St. Peter's, the gifted artisan is forced to seek out an exact match for a small mosaic tile which has fallen away.

There are millions of pieces in the roof of the St. Peters alone and the Vatican has enough spares in store to last for at least another 500 years. The stocks Gabriela is currently using were baked hundreds of years ago.

It is a simple demonstration of how cities reach out across space and through time to sustain themselves.

Michelangelo himself pressed some of those small hard pieces of glazed ceramic into buttery mortar back in the 16th century, the most famous of thousands of artisans down through hundreds of years who have toiled constantly to maintain the Basilica.

Such grand undertakings do not come cheaply or easily of course. Fortunes to dwarf the avarice of even the greediest mortals are required to maintain that type of effort over centuries. In the Holy Roman Church the Vatican as a city is lucky to have as benefactor and overlord one of the great enduring empires of human history.

Just as the larders and the kitchens of the mini-state could draw on the produce of the farms from the countryside around Rome to feed the thousands of clerics and the tens of thousands of ordinary workers who support them, so to are the cathedrals, libraries, galleries, apartments and ancient offices of the Church  - almost all of them of them furnished with fine antique furniture, sculpture, craftwork and art – sustained by an unceasing flow of capital into the Vatican. It recalls the poem by AD Hope, 'Australia':

And for the five cities, like five teeming sores,
Each drains her; a vast parasite robber state


It has been hundreds of years since cities were able to even feed themselves, and at that point in history they were nowhere near as huge and complicated as they have since grown. A modern city cut off from its hinterland will quickly starve.

Indeed, it will collapse with much greater speed than, say, a fortified medieval town laid under siege by an enemy force. Slower in effect, but just as devastating over the medium term would be any severing of the dozens of transport and communications links modern cities enjoy with the wider world, with other cities in the hinterlands thousands of miles away.

Whether arriving in the cargo hold of a jetliner traveling at near the speed of sound, or via fibre optic cable at near the speed of light, modern cities are kept alive by unimaginable quantities of goods, services and information. They are irretrievably enmeshed in immense far-flung networks of exchange beyond the imagining of any of the Vatican's earliest inhabitants.

For the most part of course they are nowadays fixed within the borders and the power hierarchies of their host states, the Vatican included in spite of its legal status as an entity entirely separate from Rome and the Italian Republic.

Are there circumstances under which the idea of the city state might flourish again? To ask the question implies a breakdown in the current order, the collapse of the nationstate system with all of the attendant chaos and carnage.

But then in the 2000 years that the site of the Vatican has been occupied its inhabitants have seen any number of earthly powers rise and fall.

For a long time the Pope's secular rule extended up and down the Italian peninsula from their seat of power in Rome. For much of the 14th century the headquarters of the holy resided as far west as Avignon in France. At times the population of greater Rome fell away to a comparative handful of living souls including the wild goats who picked over its ruins.

The idea of cities endures while men come and go and cities themselves rise and fall. Considering dispassionately the long arc of history through which the Vatican city has endured, its probably not unreasonable to consider a future in which the world as we know it falls away but within which the city state as an idea rises again.

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Comments (7)

10 Jan 2011 19:02 AEST

Maree

From: QLD

Vatican doco-Reply to Ms. Bell's comment

How sad that someone( who does not understand the reasons for the beauty displayed at the Vatican) has to always find a spot to point the finger at! Very often, those displays of "ostentation" as they are called, are made possible by the many small contributions of people who are not rich and even those who are poor.Tthere are even many who are happy to go without their "cake", if possible, in order to give something for the love of God and the Church. I would be interested to know if our friend in Canberra also went to the trouble of criticising the immense costs which have gone into recent events such as the footy grand final, world Cup bid, Oprah visit, etc, etc. It is appalling to see how our country neglects certain needs in favour of over- glorifying sport, for one. And hopefully our friend was able to help the poor herself over Christmas. We are all expected to relieve suffering and not accuse others of their apparent lack of help. Thanks for a great programme! Very enjoyable!

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10 Jan 2011 18:37 AEST

Roz

From: Brisbane

Inside The Vatican doco

What a happy lot they are working at the Vatican! Thank you for a delightful documentary.

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13 Oct 2009 9:24 AEST

Maureen Bell

From: Canberra

Vatican doco

How sad that the Vatican "ran out" of Christmas food parcels for the poor who lined up for them yet this documentary shows the huge cost of Vatican ostentation. Let the struggling poor eat cake, indeed.

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04 Oct 2009 17:34 AEST

Barnesm

From: Melbourne

An outstanding piece

What an insightful article, please more from this Australian Author

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03 Oct 2009 19:57 AEST

candice bale

From: brisbane

the star gazer

hey does anyone know the name of the man who showed the observatory in this documentary because i feel some what like he was very clever and would just like to know his name.

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02 Oct 2009 14:48 AEST

Belinda

From: Freshwater

Re: Boz

The other side of that is that physical cities will become less important altogether as the importance of virtual spaces increases. What sort of connections into the ether are you talking about? And how does a city have a virtual space?

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30 Sep 2009 15:35 AEST

Boz

From: Sydney

City state battles played out virtually?

Brings to mind Mitchell's theories of the 'City of Bits' based on the emerging digital future. Great cities of the past were determined by their size and location. Will great cities of the future be determined by their virtual spaces and amount of connections into the ether?

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About this Blog

John Birmingham is an Australian author. He was born in Liverpool, England and migrated to Australia with his parents in 1970.

John Birmingham John Birmingham is an Australian author. He was born in Liverpool, England and migrated to Australia with his parents in 1970.

He is most notable for the memoir 'He Died With A Felafel In His Hand' which has since been turned into a play, film and a graphic novel. The play was written and produced by thirty-six unemployed actors and went on to become the longest running stage play in Australian history.

Other works by him include 'The Search for Savage Henry', a crime novel featuring the character Harrison Biscuit, 'How To Be A Man', a semi-humorous guide to contemporary Australian masculinity and 'Off One's Tits', a collection of essays and articles previously published elsewhere.

In 2004 he published the alternate history 'Weapons of Choice', the first in the Axis of Time trilogy, a series of Tom Clancy-like techno-thrillers. In August 2005, the second book, 'Designated Targets' was published, followed by the third and final book, 'Final Impact', in early August 2006.

 
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