
Scouting the international supermarket aisles for foreign butchery
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A common trait that I’ve noticed amongst the food-obsessed is that one of the first places that they visit on overseas trips is the supermarket as a way to orient themselves amongst the strangeness of the new food. My first phase was to hunt down the hilariously named snack foods that make the perfect parting souvenir. For example, witness the Chocolate Flavoured Collon or my personal favourite brand of water, Steve the Quality Drops. The hilarity far outweighs the deliciousness on all occasions. After you’ve trawled the supermarket aisles for deep perversions of the English language and come away satisfied, what next?
Now I scout out cuts of meat. I’ve become a meat tourist.
Somewhat surprisingly, there is no single, canonical way to butcher an animal. There are common cuts across different cultures, but oft times, it is impossible to find the exact same cuts that you like in a different country without having a special relationship with your butcher. Butchery is an extremely culturally specific trade – and different cultures value different parts of the same animal. For example, Brazil’s favourite cut of beef is the picanha, which is a cut from the rump. Almost everywhere else, it gets ground up for hamburger or cut into chunks for a casserole.
American’s love pork ribs, cut with a huge slice of surrounding meat still attached so that the meat retains moistness after hours in the smoker. It is almost impossible to buy the right ribs for true American barbecue in Australia without giving some very specific instructions to a butcher. Please, anybody, prove me wrong.
My obsession on my last trip to the USA was tri-tip.
As far as I know, tri-tip is only really a popular cut in the Western states in the USA. Until the 1950s in America, it tended to be ground straight into meat for hamburgers like the picanha cut. In Germany it was given the respect it deserves and named the Bürgermeisterstück – the piece for the master of the town. France’s Beef Information Centre reports that the French name for it, aiguillette baronne (“the baroness’s lanyard”) started as a butcher’s pun that I entirely don’t understand.
It is a cut of meat that you either cook extremely quickly or very slowly. It makes awesome fajitas (fast) and works well in the smoker (very slow).
Tri-tip in Australia is left as a part of two different cuts – the rump and the round. When butchers break up a beef carcase, the rump and the round are split, leaving part of the tri-tip on both parts. If you ever need to con an Australian butcher into cutting you the tri-tip out, here is a handy chart.
Comments (5)
NFL Jersey Supply
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11 Nov 2010 8:30 AEST
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Oops, Gave Wrong Link for French Butcher Interview...Here it is...Serge
Mistakes happen I just realized I gave you the wrong link for that French butcher interview Here is the Right One http://www.sergetheconcierge.com/2010/11/meat-tenderness-and-the-art-of-french-cuts-the-yves-marie-le-bourdonnec-interview.html Accept my apologies Serge
11 Nov 2010 8:24 AEST
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Check my Interview on French Cuts with star butcher Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec
A week ago, I spoke with Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec in Brooklyn, New York. The star French butcher was in town to demonstrate the difference between French finesse and American 'brute force' in meat cutting. I published our interview on November 3, 2010 Here is the link http://www.sergetheconcierge.com/2010/10/meat-french-cuts-yves-marie-le-bourdonnec-shares-his-savoir-faire-at-meat-hook-ny-oct-31-nov-4.html I will mention your story Serge
03 Nov 2010 22:32 AEST
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written essays
I like Australia. Have read much information about this.
29 Oct 2010 10:32 AEST
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Butchers
The fantastic thing about living in Australia (in particular, I call Sydney home), is the wealth of multicultural butchers around the place. I have no trouble finding the three different cuts of pork spare ribs required for Chinese cooking, or beef brisket, and I often wonder where these go. The other trick of course is forming a relationship with a knowledgeable butcher proud of his craft. You make a friend like this and any cut in the world is yours.
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A blog about what the world eats, when and where it eats it, and why it matters to us all. Only much less ambitious than that sounds and with more excruciating puns.
Phil Lees grew up in rural Victoria, the first generation in his family to not have lived on the farm and thereby not slaughter their own meat.
In 2005 he moved to Cambodia and started the nation’s first food blog, Phnomenon.com, named after the best pun that he has ever made. It turns out that Cambodian food is delicious and unlike the warnings in most guidebooks, is not likely to kill you with any immediacy. Gridskipper called him a “national treasure”. Lonely Planet’s Greater Mekong guide called him “the unofficial pimp of Cambodian cuisine”. The New York Times laughed at a funny hotdog he saw.
Phil makes a mean sausage, a hoppy pale ale, a modest laksa. He owns three barbecues and is in the market for a fourth.
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