Home-smoked sausages and the National Food Plan

08 August 2012 | 15:38 - By Matthew Evans

Seafood is contraband on Virgin flights. At least in the cabin, apparently. Even if it’s good Tassie blue eye; dry salted, poached in milk, mixed with potato and organic garlic and truffle and turned into brandade, that joyous French dip. Even if the brandade is sealed under vacuum and packed with ice in a closed and taped insulated box. Even if it doesn’t smell one jot. It’s a sad indictment on our society that food, good food, isn’t allowed in the cabin of a plane simply because it comes under the very broad banner of seafood. Don’t expect to be able to take a tuna sandwich aboard a Virgin flight if my experience is anything to go by.

Anyway, the brandade was a sample from my next book, a Gourmet Farmer Deli Book, co-authored with Nick and Ross, which comes out later this month. It was the remains of a batch made for a truffle lunch in the north of Tasmania. Shame the Fat Pig Farm caravan didn’t make the trip back home. Smoke billowing from the wheels, two calls to the RACT, a $400 towing bill later, and I now have to replace the brake units on my little converted food van.

They say truffles are expensive. You can buy a little truffle for under $30. I will before the season finishes, because it will give me far more joy than the grand or so I’ll drop on the caravan just to keep it on the road. Most people spend more on their mobile phone bill each month than they would on a small truffle once a year. Money none of us seemed to be able to find just a decade ago. It all comes down to priorities.

Speaking of priorities, I attended a public meeting about the Federal Government’s National Food Plan last week. And I learned that Australia has no intention of being self sufficient in food. I would’ve thought that being able to grow a wide variety of food, in quantities that could sustain our nation, would be part of a plan for food security. Seems not. Half of all Australian fruit, nuts and veg is estimated to rot or never leave the farm. Sixty per cent of the stuff we harvest, including meat, is exported. I would’ve thought there’d be some room in there for self-sufficiency. Not that we won’t export. Or import. But if worst came to worst, be it war or peak oil, or some other kind of issue, I’d like to see us capable of supporting ourselves indefinitely. It seems that’s not part of the Plan. You can have your say here.

My week has been all over the place. Watching the moon come up over Symmons Plains waiting for a tow truck. Moving five pigs to the slaughterhouse the morning after cooking the truffle lunch. Cursing and struggling in the mud to shift a shelter to a new paddock. Getting zapped by the electric fence five times as we did so. Getting zapped another ten times as I slashed the grass underneath the hot wire that keeps the pigs in. Planting veg in the new poly-tunnels. Drying some little cacciatore sausages over a smouldering fire under the eaves. Watching my three year old learn how to get into and out of the back of the ute for the first time. While I try to load the pigs. Wondering where the three new ewes have got to. Baking bread with little bits of pork crackling in it. Tasting every Tasmanian distiller’s whisky. Moving compost. Enjoying a little more daylight than just a few weeks back.

Living. Just living every day. And loving the life we live.

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27 Nov 2012 15:49 AEST

country restaurant

From:

The fresh smell of a country restaurant

Dining and wining at country restaurant can be fun and worthwhile if the restaurant offers you the choice of 50 local wines from 8 local vineyards as well as if the restaurants offer all the features of a welcoming country restaurant. So, come and enjoy some of the delicious dishes at taste canowindra restaurant!

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04 Sep 2012 20:35 AEST

Dale

From:

Whisky

Tasting every Tasmanian distillers Whisky. Oh yeah! With a good cheese platter for pacing purposes I hope..

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24 Aug 2012 8:12 AEST

Mike

From:

series one

How I love that series one.... the gastronomic orgasm over the prosciutto and the pounding of the pork leg are classics! Re Matt's wife, did you mean "sham" or "shame" Catherine...? ;-)

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19 Aug 2012 19:46 AEST

catherine

From:

sham

is it true the gourmet farmer has a wife? what a sham

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19 Aug 2012 18:29 AEST

Narri

From:

My Patch

Isn't life great when you have little patch of dirt to call your own, and to be able to feed your family from this patch. Just smoked a leg of lamb for dinner tonight served with salad from the garden. Yes this is living. Can not wait for your new book.

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18 Aug 2012 7:04 AEST

Mike

From:

disagree all you like....

I see someone disagreed with me re my last comment (though someone else DID agree!) You can disagree all you like, the fact remains that by 2020 Australia will be as good as out of oil, fuel will be largely inaccessible/unaffordable, and quite likely money will be worthless... There's a perfectly good market in Cygnet and a Transition Town Initiative underway as well. THAT's what I'd like to see more of. Hopefully, we'll make it to Cygnet before TSHTF. And teach Matt how to tractor pigs...

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17 Aug 2012 18:44 AEST

Cheese lover

From:

Yipee

There's an idea Micheal. Can you cater my 50th? I am thinking Oysters and Sparkling... That's right I am coming to Tassie for that. Can't wait. Yipee

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17 Aug 2012 16:00 AEST

Mike

From:

nostalgic

Just watched series one the other night..... it only reminded me of how it was the most appealing of all of them. I really enjoyed the sustainability side of that series, but the last one lost me when it went all commercial, even going overseas to discover what could have been discovered right here in Oz...

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13 Aug 2012 20:05 AEST

todd

From: agnes water

hats off

love the show and more importantly your attitude and beliefs. you inspired me to buy a 5 acre block and try and live off the land even if it is only small scale. i too was once a chef and a critic (although never paid too critcize). we are looking to do chooks maybe some pigs and bees but have a few veg patches and plant alot of native fruit and nut trees. the ocean views are just a bonus. my block is good territory for goats most the builders say as there cars don't make it up the driveway.

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11 Aug 2012 21:22 AEST

Michael

From:

Artisan Wedding!

Can you cater for my wedding? You can bring Ross and Nick if you like!

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About this Blog

Ever wondered what it’d be like to leave a cushy city job and set up a small farm without any experience of rural life? Join Matthew Evans as he adjusts from being a restaurant critic to learning exactly where his food is coming from, on a farmlet in Tasmania’s beautiful Huon Valley.

Matthew Evans was once trained as a chef, before crossing to the dark side of the industry and becoming a restaurant reviewer. After five years and 2,000 restaurant meals as the chief reviewer for The Sydney Morning Herald, Matthew realised that chefs don’t have the best produce in the land, normal people who live close to the land do. So he moved to Tasmania, to a small patch of earth where he’s raising pigs and sheep, milking a cow and waiting for his chickens to start laying.

 
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