I Could Eat A Horse

by Ed Charles - 13th October 2009 | 09:55 AET
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From Pharlap to Makybe Diva, Australia loves its horses, but you might be shocked to discover how many horses from the sharp-end of breeding end up on the plate.

The fact is that as food in most English-speaking countries horse meat is taboo, despite the fact that it is harvested and exported as a foodstuff. In Australia few people in the meat business want to talk about horse meat. There are two licensed abattoirs with a thriving but low-key export trade in horse meat - usually categorized as game together with goat - to countries including Belgium and Japan. And there are, according to the RSPCA, also 33 knackeries that slaughter horses for products such as pet food that aren't for us humans to eat.

Of course, throughout history in agrarian economies the knackered horse, donkey or mule was just another source of protein. But today the attraction to the meat is similar to that of venison or kangaroo. It’s lean and sweet with a slight gamey flavour. And quite cheap.

Here's eight ways you may never want to eat horse meat:

Horse Steaks


The world’s most famous horse steak eaters, the French, have only gained that reputation since the 1789-1799 revolution simply because the horses of aristocrats were an easy source of protein for a country in turmoil. Its popularity was reinforced during food shortages post World War II. Traditionally, horse meat is sold from boucheries chevalines (horse butchers), although now it can also be bought from supermarkets. In French-speaking Quebec, in Canada, horse meat is also popular.

Chips Cooked in Horse Fat


On a recent trip to France A-list food Blogger Chez Pim, said: “…Goose fat makes superb fries, and so does duck fat, although the best oil for fries, I must say, is horse fat.” Asking food science expert Harold McGee for an explanation of the excellence of the chips, he attributed it to obsessives taking extra care in the preparation. He also said that horse fat is unusual in being high in unsaturated fatty acids that easily go rancid but “can give an aromatic complexity to whatever it is cooked in it”.

Horse with Noodles


Despite eating pretty much anything that moves in China, surprisingly horse (known as ma) isn’t something seen commonly on the menu anymore although at one time ma-jou (horse meat) was available through special butcher shops across the country. In Guilin in southwestern China, a local speciality is horse meat with rice noodles originating from the Qing Dynasty, although few noodle shops sell it nowadays. Horse meat is mainly eaten in northwest China where the animal is central to the lives of the nomadic tribes of the central Asian steppes.

Pastissada de Caval


In northern Italy, the traditional horse meat stew from Verona known as Pastissada de caval is made with wine and paprika. Legend has it that the dish originates from the town’s inhabitants marinating the meat from dead horses in the local Valpolicella wine and herbs and spices after a battle between the Ostrogoths and Barbarians in AD489. In Italy, horse - and donkey - meat has traditionally been cured to make bresaola or carpaccio. But these dishes are exceptions rather than the rule nowadays with many restaurants sadly taking horses and pack animals off the menu.

The Original Steak Tartare


Needless to say with horses being central to life on the central Asian steppes, so it is central to their diet. For those magnificent horsemen the Tartars, the most famous being Genghis Khan and his army, the horse was also a living meal. They would slice meat from the horses' hindquarters for sustenance, sewing-up the wound, and continuing on their rampage. Another legend has it that the Tartars tenderized their meat under their saddles, the origins of the classic French raw meat beef dish steak tartare.

Alcoholica Mare's Milk


This reliance on the horse on the central steppes also means a reliance on mare’s milk. Fermented, mare’s milk becomes a mildly alcoholic yoghurt-like drink known as Kumis or Airag. When visiting Mongolia in 2005  President Bush was apparently offered Kumis although there is no record as to whether or not he actually consumed it.

Horse Jerky


Commercially produced packets of horse meat jerky is an easy introduction to horse meat for squeamish tourists in Kazakhstan. For the locals though, horse flesh is a real treat and made into sausages including Kazy and the smoked sausage Shuzhuk. For special occasions and banquets, horse heads are served up in much the same manner as mutton heads on a large shared platter.

Horse Sashimi


In Japan, barbecued, horse is simply called horse meat:baniku; or skewered horse: bagushi. But raw horse meat is poetic, named after its cherry-red colour and known as sakura (cherry blossom) or sakuraniku (cherry blossom meat). Sakura served sashimi-style with soy sauce and ginger is known as basashi.

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Comments (10)

   
24 Oct 2009 12:24 AEST
GeorgeTheMadGreek
Somber desolation
A Mad Meat Eating Metal Head
I heard many years ago that our dim sims were horse meat. I do adore animals, they lift my spirits like nothing else, & like their company better to people. I wouldn't kill an animal [unless my life is threatened], but I've also been raised on a meat eating diet, how do you just give that up? A dilemma. Call me sick, I've often wondered how human flesh would taste properly cooked & seasoned. Why are humans so much more important than other creatures that they shouldn't be killed for consumption?
19 Oct 2009 08:13 AEST
Gilles
Bundaberg
Smoked Horse Meat
I remember eating smoked horse meat, at my grandparents place, they lived in Holland near the Belgium border, thinly sliced between a sandwitch, very salty. It probably was introduced during world war one, a lot of horses were lost on the battle fields of Flanders.
19 Oct 2009 12:23 AEST
Jade
Queensland
Really no difference
The way I see it there is no difference between killing a horse for meat and any other animal. Depending on culture, humans prescribe emotions to certain animals (cat, dog, horse) but not to others (cow, chicken, pig), justifying why some animals can be eaten. The question is whether a person who buys their meat packaged at the supermarket could slaughter an animal in real life in order to eat it's meat? I could not do that, and there are no survival reasons for me to do so, so I am a vego!
18 Oct 2009 03:47 AEST
clive haddock
lalor park
a/hem
why all the fuss since we first walked this earth we have devoured near everything that walks swims and flies horse meat aint all that special its edible so true to our form we eat it'
18 Oct 2009 09:52 AEST
Henry Reif
Mitcham Vic.
Horse Salami
In formal Czechoslovakia we use to eat lot of horse products /Salami/and horse meat in diferent dishes
18 Oct 2009 05:57 AEST
dsurte66
kiama
Always wanted to try horsemeat
Horse meat is one of the few meats I've yet to try. Having grown up up on a farm we slaughtered our own meat eg beef, lamb, pork poultry but never horse, it was never considered. Now I'd love to try a horse steak. I'm of the view that if you're going to eat meat you should be able to kill for it or at least accept that fact when eating it. I find it hypocritical those meat eaters who baulk at the thought of killing even though that by eating meat you're part of the killing process.
16 Oct 2009 03:00 AEST
Matt C
Redfern
Basashi is great
Horse meat sashimi, or basashi is a wonderful dish. Very common in Japanese izakayas.
16 Oct 2009 11:04 AEST
Drew
Sydney
Let them eat horse
If you're not a vegetarian, it's difficult to justify telling people why they shouldn't eat certain animals because 'it's just wrong'. Whales are possibly endangered, and killed brutally. They are also a transnational resource, so I don't think it's reasonable to eat them. Similar arguments can be made for a number of animals. but if an animal is raised and killed humanely and sustainably, and is not an endangered species, how can any non-vegetarian really argue that you shouldn't eat it?
16 Oct 2009 06:11 AEST
Steve
Sydney
Really
They barbecue cats in Maroubra?
14 Oct 2009 03:11 AEST
Fernanda
Maroubra
Shocking...
I think it's just wrong eating horses. I'm not a vegetarian, but I do find weird or cruel eating animals such as whales, horses or dogs. I come from a place where people barbecue cats - isn't it disgusting?
   

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