Pork may be the rising star of the Australian meat world, but you only have to look back to the 1990s to recall the years of struggle.

Back then, pork was suffering an identity crisis, sold as 'the other white meat' during the height of the fat-free era and bred to be as lean as possible, resulting in a less flavoursome, drier meat that could be easily overcooked.

"Ten to 20 years ago, people only thought of pork in two ways: as a roast or as a ham," recalls Anthony Puharich of Sydney's award-winning Victor Churchill butchery and wholesaler Vic's Meats.

Fast-forward, and Australia is now a nation that loves to pig out. Pork belly, an obscurity just several years ago, is now one of our most popular cuts of meat. Salumi platters and Italian providores have expanded tastes beyond kranskies and leg ham, making household names out of copa, proscuitto, sopressa and more; Spanish eateries have managed the same with jamón, morcilla and chorizo. Add pig-loving English expat chefs and intrinsic pork cultures from Asian and European immigrations, and it's clear that the road to Australia's pig heaven has been paved with passports.

If our enjoyment of pork is no longer in question, what, where and how we enjoy is still in a state of flux. Take, for example, the growing number of farmers choosing to raise more flavoursome rare breeds, rather than the mass-produced white pigs that still make up most of our pork intake. "The quality of pork across the board has gotten better," says Puharich, tipping his hat to those following more traditional farming methods.

But while our pork consumption is increasing, domestic production is in decline. The culprits? Ongoing years of drought, increased grain costs, and our zest for imported goods: upwards of 70 per cent of our ham and bacon comes from overseas, the wide majority from Canada, Denmark and, to a lesser degree, the US.

The good news is that all imports have to be processed by the time they reach Australian quarantine, so fresh pork comes solely from Australian farmers. To support domestic producers, Australian Pork has recently initiated a pink "porkmark" label that makes it easy to determine which bacon, hams and other products are from Australian paddocks. It's the reliable alternative to "processed in Australia" labelling, which includes imported pork that's been processed after arrival.

Rare Breeds and Free Range

The biggest improvement in pork this decade has been at the hands of a revival of farmers using rare breeds, as well as a push to farm via more traditional means, from organic to free-range. These breeds – such as Berkshires, Wessex Saddlebacks and Tamworths –take longer to grow, which results in meat with a more complex flavour.

These breeds are fattier than standard white pigs, so their pork is more tender when cooked, as the fat protects, lubricates and flavours the meat. These pigs are also darker and hairier, so they are able to withstand sunburn and roam the paddock, whereas white pigs need sun protection.

Like most other livestock, it's said that a happy pig is a tasty pig, and Joe Byrne's Bangalow Sweet Pork in 1999 helped drive the current wave of farmers using better-quality conditions and feed, with Berkshire-cross pigs allowed to roam paddocks instead of being kept in pens, and given quality feed that encourages marbling in the meat. Today, Byrne's pork is among the most-recognised pork brands in the country, although his product often gets confused with the Bangalow pork being sold by other producers in the area.

Not all rare-breeds are alike. "The breeds have evolved for very specific things," says James Caspar, a veterinarian who raises free-range Berkshire and Berkshire-cross pigs on his farm just outside Mudgee, NSW. "The different breeds look very different. It's not just the colour of their hair, it's the shape as well." He adds that it's like comparing different dog breeds: a boxer versus a terrier versus a poodle.

The appearance of the pigs are easy to distinguish: Tamworths are ginger-haired, Wessex Saddlebacks are black with white bands, black-haired Berkshires have white blaises on their foreheads and white feet, and large blacks have floppy ears that cover their eyes. But getting a differentiating flavour profile of each is hard to muster, as pig farmers and butchers usually only carry one breed, so comparisons are hard to come by.

Caspar says that Tamworths are known for being better for bacon because of their longer bodies, while his Berkshires have a marbling of fat in their meat that makes them extra flavoursome. Fiona Chambers of Fernleigh Farms, near Daylesford, Victoria, says she's heard that her Wessex Saddlebacks don't have the boar taint that affects other breeds. Michael Cowan, from Bronseas in Victoria's Gippsland, raises a few different rare breeds, but says that the fattiness of the meat merely depends on which pig is the most aggressive with the feed. Korobuta are recognised globally as a premium pork breed; the Japanese name indicates Berkshires that have been bred for superior marbling.

What all agree on is that rare breeds taste better. "The feedback that we get from our customers is that it is a more complex flavour," says Caspar. By having the pigs run around the paddock, he explains, they develop different muscle fibres, so the meat becomes darker colour and the texture denser. "People remark that it's how they remember pork as a child. It has a more pronounced flavour."

It's not just that they pigs are rare breeds, but also that they're free-range. The pigs get to feed on roots and shoots, instead of food concentrates and rations. Add to that trace minerals from the soil, and their diet results in a taste of . "It's like when you drink a wine," says Caspar. "[The environment] carries on to the meat."

Pork, By the Chops

It can be hard to deviate from what we're comfortable with. Some of us have only cooked pork loin or pork chops; others have never cooked pork at all. But start talking to pork-savvy chefs and butchers, and a common chorus emerges – learn to use less-mainstream pork cuts and you'll be rewarded with more flavour, variety and excitement. The flexibility also lightens the wallet with cheaper cuts, as price often reflects demand for lean and easy-to-cook cuts, not necessarily the tastiest meats, albeit that's changing as pork preferences get more sophisticated.

Before even thinking about cuts, it first pays to think about gender. When it comes to pork, females rule. Male pigs have a strong smell known as 'boar taint', due to testosterone production. "With females, their meat is milkier because they have milk in their system," says Puharich, who also says female pork is sweeter, whiter and cleaner flavoured. He adds that less reputable sellers can stock pork from male pigs, and use a common tactic to castrate them to diminish boar taint.

When talking pork with your butcher, Puharich says there are four primary areas - the forequarters, loin, belly and hindquarters - each of which is further divided into specific cuts. Here's his guide to the various options:

Forequarters

Neck: Also called a scotch fillet, this cut is good to roast, barbecue, braise, confit or pan-fry. It's an amazing piece of meat. The neck is a cracker. It has all this connective tissue with marbling through it. It's resilient, so when you chew, it releases flavour, texture and juiciness. I'm a massive neck fan.

Hock: This is from the leg, just above the trotters. Most people masterstock or braise them. The best hocks are from the back leg. They're a lot meatier. The front ones we use for smoked hocks. They're good for flavouring soups like pea and ham.

Shoulder: Traditionally diced, the modern use of this tougher cut of meat is to slow-cook it whole until it becomes fall-apart tender. It's also the best cut for making snags. The most popular sausages all use pork.

Trotters: Essentially pig's feet, they're often used for Asian-style cooking. There's this incredible gelatinous texture. Trotters can be used for soups. The French stuff them, and the Italians use them for zampone, sausages or cut the meat into discs and pan-fry.

Loin

Rack, tenderloin and boneless loin: They all derive from the same cut. These are tender cuts, so they require quicker cooking, whether grilled, barbecued, pan-fried or roasted. The tenderloin is often cut into medallions for pan-frying.

Chops: The chop is essentially a T-bone. Use it to grill, pan-fry or barbecue, or as a pork cutlet.

Belly

Pork belly: Our most popular cut. It's out of control, especially at restaurants. An ideal way to cook belly is to crisp the skin in a pan, then braise it in liquid, making sure to fill the dish just below the skin so that it remains crispy.

Ribs: Brown, marinate, then braise ribs until the meat is done. Pork ribs are more tender than beef or lamb.

Hindquarters

Leg: Let's face it, most of these are being made into ham, prosciutto or jamon before we even get near them. It's a big hunk of meat, so home cooks are more likely to use the uncured version for roast leg, especially at Christmas time. Or you can dice it and use for a casserole or stew.

Rump, topside and silverside: These are steaks cut from different parts of the leg, providing more manageable portions.

The Off-Cuts

Pig's ear: It has a beautiful texture. It's similar to eating crackling. They can be deep-fried until crispy, braised or boiled. Prior to cooking, they'll need to be cleaned and the hair burnt off.

Guanciale: The pig's jowl or cheek. It's not commonly used in Australia, although Puharich says he was once served guanciale at Peter Gilmore's Quay. It was the most amazing dish I've had in my life.

For more off-cuts, check out Nose to Tail Eating