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Durum wheat
The Golden Triangle is the area from Moree to Narrabri to Inverell, not far from the Queensland border. Already a wheat-growing area, it is now seeing an increase in the cultivation of durum wheat. As the Latin name durum (hard) indicates, this is the “hardest” wheat variety known. (The wheat from which bread flour is made, for example, is a soft wheat.)
Durum has a dense structure, a high protein content and high gluten strength. The kernels are larger, more elongated and more golden-orange in colour than other varieties and the endosperm is a unique yellow colour.
Although durum was first trialled in Australia early last century (by pioneering wheat breeder William Farrer) it wasn’t until the 1950s that there was much demand… and then only, ironically, for making tinned spaghetti! In fact, most early pasta in Australia was made from the more readily available bread wheat. But there’s a big difference, as Manildra mill manager Doug Hudson explains. “Its gluten strength and properties are different. Bread wheat will overcook and go gluggy if used for pasta while durum can take excess cooking and still keep together.”
The durum grain is milled through a lengthy, 18-stage process, until it produces a fine grade semolina – essentially an unrefined, granular substance a little like polenta in consistency. Semolina contains the endosperm of the grain, still in a granular form. (Wheat flour is refined semolina.) The granular consistency is needed in making a good pasta dough. (Durum semolina is also used to make couscous.)
The important thing about durum is that pasta made with this marvellous wheat is not sticky. When cooked, the water remains clear, not cloudy, a sign that the starches are being retained.
The durum grain is graded according to its protein content. The premium DR1 grade contains between 13 and 16%. Due to the high quality of Australian premium-grade DR1 durum, we have been exporting it since 1994 - to Spain, Morocco, Libya, Algeria, South Africa, Ecuador… and even Italy. In fact, Italy now buys about 70% of Australian durum wheat exports.
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