It’s the most important event of the Orthodox calendar – the movingly solemn ritual that is Greek Easter. Ceremonies and feasts last from Thursday to Sunday, each day with its own rites and feasts. Greek Easter is celebrated on Sunday, 15 April in 2012.
In Sydney, the very Greek suburb of Marrickville is bustling in the lead-up to Easter – butchers selling meat for souvlaki and offal for the traditional Easter soup, bakers selling koulourakia (Easter butter biscuits) and tsoureki (plaited sweet Easter bread).
In Greek homes like that of Dimitra Batzakis and her daughter Zoe Sabados, koulourakia are prepared early in the week and shared among family members. On Holy Thursday, dozens of hard boiled eggs are dyed red, symbolising the blood of Christ. Some of these eggs will be the final adornment to the tsoureki, a plaited brioche. Tsourekia are formed by a three stranded plait of dough – representing the Holy Trinity. The magic ingredient is mastic or mastika - a natural gum from the island of Chios which comes in crystals. Dimitra then pounds it into powder before adding it to the tsoureki dough.
Good Friday is the climax of the annual celebrations held at the Greek church. The women visit the church in the morning to decorate a symbolic funeral byre, representing the death of Christ.
That evening there is a procession - the congregation follows the funeral byre around the local streets then returns to the church. Here everyone lights candles to commemorate the death of Jesus.
Easter Saturday is magyaritsa time, when preparations get underway to make the offal soup with which people will break their fast after the midnight service. The family turn sheep intestines inside out to wash them then snip them into lengths. Lungs, heart, liver and spleen are also part of the soup, along with lots of freshly chopped dill.
On Saturday night everyone gathers at the church for the most emotionally-charged part of the Easter ceremonies. The ultimate moment is just before midnight when the church is darkened. Out of the darkness, the priest emerges with a single lit candle. Christ is Risen. Christos Anesti. The congregation comes forward to receive the light and Jesus is re-born.
Dimitra’s final dish from the kitchen is avgolemono – egg and lemon sauce for her magyritsa. After the meal each person grabs a coloured egg and cracks it against those of the other guests. The person whose egg remains unbroken will enjoy good luck for the rest of the year.
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