Black pudding is one of those foods that polarises opinions. Whether you love it with a passion or the very notion of it makes you feel queasy, it’s not a dish that fosters ambivalence.

The French, however, are in little doubt. In France, black pudding is known as boudin noir (literally ‘black roll’) and the specialty sausages have such a dedicated following there’s an entire festival devoted to them. For over 50 years the Festival du boudin or ‘Black Pudding Fair’ has been held every March in Mortagne au Perche, Normandy.

Also known as blood pudding or blood sausage, black pudding is an English term for sausages that are made by cooking animal blood with a filler and then allowing it to cool and congeal before being squeezed into sausage casings. It is most often made from pig or cow’s blood but can also be made with the blood of goats or sheep. These sausages feature as a standard part of the traditional “full English breakfast” in Britain, Scotland and Ireland.

But while it was the British who coined the term and widely popularised the dish, some of the best black pudding in the world can be found across the channel. Making Boudin noir is one of France’s oldest charcuterie traditions, with a history stretching back over 2,000 years. French boudin noir is usually made with pig’s blood and pork fat, with apples or onions seasoned with spices used as a filler, and is typically served with cooked apples and mashed potatoes.

However, there are numerous ways of making boudin noir and many regional variations. For example, traditional boudin de Paris consists of equal quantities of blood, fat and cooked onions, but the proportions can vary dramatically and different seasonings may be used or various fruits, vegetables, and aromatics added.

Undoubtedly, the best place to sample a wide variety of boudin noir is at the Black Pudding Fair held over three days between 14-16 March 2009 in Normandy. Over 100 exhibitors come to display their wares and compete for the coveted International Best Black Pudding prize. Local specialist butchers and delicatessens demonstrate the complex art of making the sausages, and there are cook-offs between local professional and amateur chefs to see who can best use the produce.

It has been said that if you laid out all of the black pudding consumed at the fair it would extend over five kilometers. That’s a whole lot of blood.

And elsewhere …

Surprisingly, France isn’t the only place where black pudding features at a large-scale festivity. Every year, travelers and locals alike gather in Ramsbottom, Manchester, to compete in the World Black Pudding Throwing Championships. Contestants throw their bloody snags at a 20-ft high wall of Yorkshire puddings. Whoever knocks the most puddings off is declared the winner.

Where to buy black pudding in Australia

To source black pudding in Australia your best bet is a well-stocked delicatessen or specialty butcher, but these days even some supermarkets stock it. A few places to try include:

David Jones Foodhalls
Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide and Perth
http://www.davidjones.com.au/services/food.jsp

Morrison Street Continental Butchers
Wodonga, Victoria (deliveries within a 20km radius)
http://www.morrisonstbutchers.com.au/

Wursthaus Kitchen
Hobart, Tasmania
http://www.wursthauskitchen.com.au

Make your own blood pudding

Making your own blood pudding is not for the faint of heart. For one thing, you’ll need to have access to fresh pig’s blood. Few abattoirs are willing to supply fresh blood unless you’re having your own animals butchered. Dried blood can be used as an alternative, but you’ll need to locate a specialist producer. Ask your local butcher about where you might be able to find dried blood and also the correct sausage casings needed to make the puddings. Seasonings vary but often include cayenne pepper, herbs and coriander. These are added to a mixture of the blood and an extender (such as cooked onions, oatmeal or breadcrumbs) then cooked together before being used to fill the sausage casings. Finally, the puddings are lightly poached for five to ten minutes.