St Martin does well. Goose, turkey, pork, wine, and sometimes chestnuts are the foods for his day which is celebrated on November 11 in much of Europe.

The saint was born in Hungary yet spent his youth in Italy and later became a soldier, converted to Christianity, and after much time in France became bishop of Tours. Following his death on November 8 in 397 he was one of the few early saints to have lived a long life, and not to have been martyred.

The St Martin’s Day festival combines aspects of European life such as agriculture, religion, vinous, and often meteorological. In Italy and parts of France, St. Martin’s summer also refers to the common burst of fine weather in early November, between the showers of October and the chill of December. Other regions such as the Auvergne in central France have traditionally hosted horse fairs on St Martin’s Day. There are also many tenuous predictions made on the severity of the coming winter, for example if it snows on the day it is claimed to be a sign it will be muddy at Christmas.

St Martin’s Day, also known as Martinmas, closely marks the end of the agricultural year. In Italy, it used to be the time for the renewal of leases and contracts; and in France for the payment of tithes in kind (such as barrels of wine).

Most importantly for the taste buds it was also the time for feasting. This was partly practical however in the killing of geese and pigs was an important preparation for the winter months. Communities in colder climates slaughtered animals whose meat and fat could be stored, assured food supplies and animal fed over harsh and barren colder months. In France for example, the killing of pigs resulted in quantities of salted or smoked meats with the unused portions being consumed immediately.

The perfect accompaniment for this meaty feast was to savour the taste of the last wine vintage as it had only just completed the fermentation process. An old French proverb taunts: “On St Martin’s Day, who doesn’t drink wine is a donkey, and who drinks too much is twice a donkey.” St Martin, not surprisingly, is the patron saint of drinkers in some areas, and of many grape growers.

St Martin himself had strong connections with grape produce during his time in France. He is thought to have worked in the vineyards around Tours, and is credited in some stories with bringing particular grape varieties to the area.

In both Italy and France, a hangover is sometimes known as the illness of St Martin. The donkey reference is also points to a number of events in St Martin’s life: in one French version, he learnt about pruning vines hard after a donkey had nibbled the canes down to the old wood. Everyone was distraught, until the vines shot again enlightening St Martin on this particular process.

In Germany and Scandinavian countries, the traditional food for the feast was goose, usually tenderly roasted and often served on the evening before.

There is actually a double connection between the day and the use of geese. One story claims St Martin hid in a goose-pen because he did not want to become bishop of Tours, but the cackling and honking of geese gave his hiding place away.

The other stories pre-date St Martin himself. In Early November, from All Souls Day on November 1 onwards, was a pagan Celtic festival time; geese were important in Celtic ritual and mythology, and were regarded as messengers to the other world.

Whatever the mythological or humorous connections, eating the nicely fattened geese before winter set in was good practical reason itself. In Sweden for instance, there is a particular goose dish – svartsoppa – a black soup, made with goose giblets, spices, dried fruit, wine and goose blood made especially during this time of year.

By contrast in Italy, San Martino is celebrated slightly different, and in ways that vary from north to south. His early years spent there and connection to the Italian people secured his place in their culture and hearts. The small town of Peschiera del Garda, near Verona, take St Martin as their patron and hold a modern three day festival marking the joyous day. The seasonal chestnuts form a large part of the feasting.

In other regions, such as around Venice they have commenced their own variations and traditions. St Martin’s biscuits for example are enjoyed throughout these areas. Carol Field, in Celebrating Italy (William Morrow and Company, 1990) describes the biscuits that were made in Venice as buttery, soft, and depicting the Saint on horseback. In Sicily, the biscotti were flavoured with spices or orange and baked three times then dipped into delicious moscato wine.