Rachel Khoo, British cook and television host of The Little Paris Kitchen, sheds light on where to eat like a local when in Paris. According to districts, known as arrondissements, she rounds up the restaurants, shops, cafés, pâtisseries and picnic spots that have kept her in the City of Light for the past seven years.
By
Rachel Khoo

4 Jul 2013 - 2:14 PM  UPDATED 2 Jul 2014 - 4:28 PM

Restaurants

1st arrondissement

Verjus Wine Bar 47, rue Montpensier The brainchild of Braden and Laura of Paris’s supper club Hidden Kitchen, head here for an excellent selection of small plates, such as morsels of buttermilk fried chicken and celery root dumplings.

Spring 6, Rue Bailleul Executing a five-step tasting menu from a totally open kitchen, American chef Daniel Rose and his team offer an inventive and thoughtful dining experience just a stone’s through from the Louvre.

The Beef Club 58, rue Jean Jacques Rousseau Opened in early April by the team behind The Experimental Cocktail Club, The Beef Club is modeled on an Anglophone steak house and is serving up Longhorn beef sourced from Yorkshire by Ginger Pig.


2nd arrondissement

Frenchie 5-6, Rue du Nil Ex-head chef of Fifteen Greg Marchand’s table is one of the hardest to get in the city. Head here for the fresh and innovative market menu and casual, but fun atmosphere.

Frenchie Bar a Vins 5-6, Rue du Nil Following the success of Frenchie restaurant comes the equally sought out spot at the no reservations wine bar.

Blend 44, rue d’argout
Blend burgers are the talk of the town, based on a special blend by boucher boheme, Yves-Marie le Bourdonnec.


3rd arrondissement

Breizh Café 109, Rue Vieille du Temple Home to Paris’s finest crepes, Breizh cafe uses top quality ingredients to create a range of highly original buckwheat savoury galettes.

Candelaria 52, Rue de Saintonge Tacos, tostados and huevos rancheros are among the Mexican offerings at this busy eat-in, take out and cocktail bar in the Haut Marais.


6th arrondissement

L’Avant Comptoir 9, Carrefour de l’Odéon This little wine bar must be up there with my little Paris kitchen as one of Paris’s tiniest cooking establishments.

Le Comptoir 9, Carrefour de l’Odéon Often hailed as the father of the bistronomique movement in Paris, Yves Camdeborde’s modern take on the bistrot makes the most of the nose-to-tail philosophy and at the weekend offers good bistrot fare at reasonable prices


7th arrondissement

La Fontaine de Mars 129, Rue Saint-Dominique This traditional Parisian bistrot is known for its hearty French fare.


10th arrondissement

Le Verre Volé 67, Rue de Lancry The perfect cave á manger, with natural wines and a short market menu, this fun wine bar is a Canal Saint Martin favourite.

Bob’s Juice Bar 15, Rue Lucien Sampaix When I need a break from French food I like to pop by Bob’s for a juice and a healthy salad from Mark’s New York style eatery.

Youpi et Voilà 8, rue Vicq d’Azir A colourful modern bistrot by self taught chef Patrice Gelbart.

Albion 80 rue Faubourg Poissionière An expat team who met at Saint Germain’s Boissonerie recently opened this oenologically-orientated bistrot in a trendy part of town.


11th arrondissement

Rino 46, Rue Trousseau In this pocket-sized bistrot chef Giovanni Passerini offers a modern French menu with a strong Italian influence.

Septime 80, Rue de Charonne One of my favourite places to eat in Paris for its colourful, artistically executed set menu.

Le Bistrot Paul Bert 18, Rue Paul Bert Perhaps one of Paris’s worst kept secrets, this neighbourhood bistrot dishes up all the French classics in a quintessentially Parisian setting.

Aux Deux Amis 45, Rue Oberkampf This quirky ex-Tabac attracts hipsters and locals alike who cram into the tiny space to swig natural wines and share plates of French ‘tapas’ in a fun and unpretentious setting.

Le Chateaubriand 129, Avenue Parmentier A neo-bistrot with a cutting edge no choice 5 course dinner menu; Inaki Aizpitarte is hailed as one of Paris’ coolest chefs since Le
Chateaubriand opened in 2008.

Le Dauphin 131, Avenue Parmentier Inaki Aizpitarte’s trendy tapas bar designed by Rem Koolhaas opened to an enslaught of adoration from chefs and critics and offers an eclectic mix of high-end sharing plates.

Au Passage 1bis, passage de Saint-Sebastien Part of the new breed of neo-bistrots offering natural wines, sharing plates featuring excellent ingredients and a laid-back atmosphere.

Le Grain de Riz 49, Rue Godefroy Cavaignac This tiny Vietnamese restaurant serves genuine delicious Vietnamese food with a warm, friendly smile.

Chez Aline 85, Rue de la Roquette Chez Aline is a fabulous little lunch place where Delphine Zalpetti (ex Le Verre Volé) cooks up fresh simple dishes. It is a great place to head for a mid-week lunch.


12th arrondissement

La Gazzetta 29, Rue de Cotte Petter Nilsson is one of Paris’s most celebrated chefs and his restaurant La Gazzetta offers an inventive market based menu at affordable prices.


18th arrondissement

Le Bal Café 6, Impasse de la Défense An Anglo-inspired eatery offering great coffee, an exemplary kedgeree and an ideal terrace for an aperitif.


19th arrondissement

Le Baratin 3, rue Jouye-Rouve Off a little sidestreet in Paris’s second Chinatown Belleville, you’ll find this restaurant serving simple, tasty French food and a great selection of wines.

Que du Bon 22, Rue Plateau A casual neighbouhood bistrot with a daily changing market menu at great prices.

Shops
 

1st arrondissement

Mora 13, Rue Montmartre This store is a must for any budding chef. A little pricey, but all the products sold in the store are of great quality.

E.Dehillerin 20, Rue Coquillière Head to E.Dehillerin for everything you might want in the way of kitchenware; difficult to leave without and armful of copper pans, patisserie moulds and random knick knacks.


2nd arrondissement

G.Detou 58, Rue Tiquetonne A treasure trove of ingredients with everything you can imagine from foie gras to 10k bags of chocolate buttons.


3rd arrondissement

Mary’s Ice Cream 1, Rue Charles-François Dupuis Gelato lovers are well-catered for at this authentic little Italian gelateria run by Mary Quarta. I go here for the freshest raspberry sorbet in town.


6th arrondissement

Grom 81, Rue de Seine The only French outpost for the Turin-born gelateria, Grom is one of the city’s best ice cream shops.


7th arrondissement


Brasserie aux PTT 54, rue Cler
The charming oyster man from episode 5 sells his oysters from his stand opposite this bar.

Marie-Anne Cantin 12, Rue Champ de Mars Fromage aficionado Marie-Anne Cantin is a renowned cheese seller and refiner.

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La Chambre des Confitures 9, rue des Martyrs A gorgeous little boutique on a very foodie street, stocking a fabulous selection of extensive collection of jams, chutneys, confits and spreads for slathering on your baguette.

11th arrondissement

La Cocotte 5, rue Paul Bert A quirky little store selling cute aprons, tea towels and other cutesy kitchen items.


19th arrondissement

Ma Cave en Ville 105, Rue de Belleville Everyone needs a trusted wine seller, and this is mine! A great selection of wine featuring a number of hard-to-find organic and natural wines.

Cafés/bars

 
1st arrondissement

Le Télescope 5, rue Villedo This brand spanking new cafe is part of the new wave of excellent coffee shops transforming the Parisian cafe scene.

O-Chateau 68, Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau The brainchild of sommelier and social commentator Olivier Magny, O-Chateau is a classy wine bar.

4th arrondissement

Le Caféothèque 52, Rue de l’Hôtel de ville
One of the key players in the transformation of Parisian coffee culture, Le Caféothèque serves exceptional coffee and sells beans to go.


6th arrondissement

Da Rosa 62, Rue de Seine Hand sliced iberico can be nibbled over a glass of wine and some Italian olives on this excellent terrace for people watching.


7th arrondissement

Coutume Café 7, Rue de Babylone Siphon coffee and Patisserie des Reves pastries are all on the menu at this chic little coffee shop with an Anglo-American feel.


12th arrondissement

Le Baron Rouge 1, Rue Théophile Roussel A bustling cheap and cheerful wine bar that is perfect for a post-Aligre market carafe of wine and a plate of shucked-to-order oysters.


19th arrondissement

Café Cherie 44, Boulevard de la Villette This is my local hangout, where I head for fresh mint tea during the day and chill out over a glass of wine in the evening.

Rosa Bonheur 2, allée de la Cascade In the park, Buttes Chaumont this bar-cum-cafe is a chilled out place with outdoor picnic benches.

Bakeries/pâtisseries
 

1st arrondissement

Angelina 226 Rue de Rivoli So it is a little touristy, but this Parisian institution serves some of the thickest hot chocolate in town.


3rd arrondissement

Jacques Genin 133, rue de Turenne Head to his salon de the for a degustation of his delicate chocolates or try one of his assembled-to-order millefeuilles, one of the best in town.

Popelini 29, Rue Debelleyme Since Popelini opened its doors knowing where to go for the best choux in Paris is a no-brainer.

Pain de Sucre 14, rue Rambuteau Part of the new breed of boutique patisserie in Paris, Pain de Sucre sells macarons and elaborate reinvented classic pastries.


6th arrondissement

Pierre Hermé 72, Rue Bonaparte Arguably one of Paris’s most important patissiers, Pierre Hermé is famous for reinventing the macaron with his quirky sweet and savoury pairings.


7th arrondissement

Patisserie des Reves 93, Rue du Bac Everything created by Philippe Conticini is so beautifully presented that it nearly looks like a jewel shop. Try Le Paris Brest.


10th arrondissement

Du Pain et Des Idées 34, rue Yves Toudic ‘Le Pain des Amis’, a rustic sourdough with an epic smoky crust, is the brainchild of baker Christophe Vasseur, who supplies the city’s leading restaurants.


11th arrondissement

Le Blé Sucré 7, Rue Antoine Vollon At this neighbourhood boulangerie discover beautiful breads, exemplary cannelé, and a range of pretty patisserie.


18th arrondissement

Boulangerie Gontran Cherrier 22, Rue Caulaincourt Gontran Cherrier is not only charming but he bakes fantastically innovative bread, like his squidgy squid ink buns.


19th arrondissement

Veronique Mauclerc 83, Rue de Crimee This local boulangerie headed by Veronique Mauclerc offers a variety of breads studded with nuts and raisins as well as a good selection of organic breads.

Picnic spots

4th arrondissement

Place des Vosges When it comes to picturesque picnic spots, the perfectly symmetrical Place des Vosges offers a quiet getaway from the Marais crowds. Grad a world famous falafel wrap from the rue des Rosiers and enjoy by the fountains.

Ile Saint Louis So it’s not always easy to get a spot here in the height of summer, but if you manage to you can while away the afternoon with views onto the Hotel de Ville, Notre Dame and the Seine.


8th arrondissement

Champ de Mars In the shadow of one of the city’s most iconic structures, join the hoards of other picnickers for an unbeatable view of the Eiffel Tower.


10th arrondissement

Canal St Martin When Spring finally arrives and the leaves are back on the trees, the Canal St Martin comes into its own with a fun crowd of drinkers spilling out from the bars onto the cobbled canal banks.


19th arrondissement

Buttes-Chaumont Not purely due to its proximity to my flat, but the Buttes Chaumont is one of my favourite picnic places in Paris. One of the few unmanicured parks in the city, this is one of the most charming parks to jog, picnic and play.

Markets

3rd arrondissement

Marche des Enfants Rouges 39, Rue de Bretagne This enclosed market in the trendy haut Marais is said to be one of the oldest in Paris.


12th arrondissement

Marche d’Aligre, Place Aligre Open all week long except Mondays, the Marche d’Aligre is one of Paris’s most bustling markets.

16th arrondissement

Marche Place du President Wilson Head to this open air market on Wednesday or Saturday and you’ll find the famous Joel Thiebault and his beautiful heritage root vegetables grown just a few miles from Paris.

17th arrondissement

Batignolles An organic market open on Saturdays.


19th arrondissement


Boulevard de la Villette
My local market which I hop down to on a Wednesday morning to stock up on delicious farm eggs and cheeses.