What's a salt-of-the-earth type got to do to get some respect around here? Publicly demonised for the crime of having a high glycemic index. Too many complex carbs. Too many kilojoules. Way too likely to hang out with notorious bad boys like oil and salt. Spud's been on the hit list for years.
And yet, we still eat them by the truckload.
Here's the thing: potatoes may have a few issues, but they deserve their spot as the sixth most important staple food in the world. They are fat-free, a good source of both iron and fibre, packed with vitamins C, B3 and niacin, and an excellent source of potassium and manganese. They're also flat-out yummy any way you cook them.
Right now, they're also in good supply at the shops. Which automatically makes them the current King of Starch. Here's how to make friends with good ol' spud.
Potatoes love getting roasted
Call them any name you like, potatoes can take a good roasting. They bake easily in the knowledge that no other vegetable can achieve that fluffy-on-the-inside, crunchy-on-the-outside magnificence of a roast potato. They do this generously, requiring just 10 minutes of effort and a long, slow roasting to perfection.
Whistle and they're there
Known to the people of the Aukštaitija region in Lithuania as bulbona, these potato pillows are more commonly called Švilpikai, which translates as ‘whistles’ due to the noise they sometimes make while they cook away in the oven.
Always ready to comfort
Potatoes are never better than when they're making gnocchi great. The playfulness of making the silky dough, the soothing rhythm of rolling it out, the mindful repetition of cutting each generous bite. It all comes together to create a comforting dish that will quickly make you forget, whatsisname, pasta.
One-tray kindness
They're givers, potatoes. They ask for nothing more than a rough peeling and chopping, before getting down to business. Here, they work tirelessly with some pork snags and a few herbs to cook dinner for you. You'll barely have to lift a finger. That's how kind potatoes are.
There when the chips are down
It doesn't take much to lift potatoes to grand heights. Combined with oil and salt, they are sensational. Legendary chef Heston Blumenthal calls these chips "one of my proudest legacies", so you know you're in for a crunchy treat. Balance these bad boys out with a large salad - this rainbow version would be perfect.
Rose's secret weapon in these savoury zeppole is potato, cooked and mixed in with the flour, eggs, yeast and milk. Each savoury doughnut is stuffed with an olive or anchovy before frying for an added surprise inside.
Many countries have their own version of an open omelette. The Italians have frittata, the Spanish tortilla. In France it is Spanish omelette. Traditionally it wouldn’t be new season potatoes used in this dish – it would be bigger main crop potatoes – but I wanted to celebrate the first of the early potatoes and they work surprisingly well.
Tortilla togetherness
The classic Spanish tortilla is packed with potato, but adding broccoli lightens it a little and adds another vegetable to the friendship picnic. This is still a four-ingredient dish, prepared in moments and ready for lunch in about half an hour.
Spice up the friendship
Bring a little bit of Bollywood into your relationship with these exotic vegetarian morsels. Bhajis are the Indian version of veggie fritters, so naturally, they make great snacking. Dip them into carrot raita, or a spicy red pepper chutney.
Share some pie
This cheese, potato and onion pie is real comfort food, warming and filling, based on potatoes and enhanced with lots of melted cheese. The rich pastry is very tender and almost melts into the filling beneath. Serve it as a meat-free main course, with some steamed greens or a big bowl of salad.
It can be as simple or as complicated as you like, but a good fish pie is right at the pointy end of the comfort food pyramid for me.
Those that pud
The perfect Lithuanian potato pudding is soft and fluffy, though many home cooks hold their own opinion on whether you should strain off the liquid when grating the potatoes, or keep the liquid, resulting in a moister dish. Both are good, it is simply a matter of taste.
Say chowder
This one-pot clam chowder wonder is enriched with floury potatoes. So thick it's practically a mash. There's magic in watching potatoes soak up the liquid surrounding them. Like a giant, flavour-packed sponge.
Frico great
Frico is a bit like a cheesy potato tortilla but without any eggs. It hails from the mountainous Friuli region in north-east Italy. It's made with our friend the potato plus onions and cheese. Like all of the best foods, it's happiest eaten with a glass of red wine.
Traditional poutine is a Canadian specialiof French fries and cheese curds smothered in gravy. Kosher poutine is a bit of a challenge, but fear not as I have mastered the art with shredded fresh mozzarella to replace the curds and a parmesan ‘gravy’. This is a great dish for Hanukkah, as dairy is customarily eaten to remember the bravery of Yehudit. Note: you may need to take a nap afterwards!
Make sweet moussaka together
Time is something we've all got right now, and moussaka takes time. Every moment is rewarded when you bite into the potatoey, eggplant, zucchini (yes, this version adds zucchini) goodness that this layered bake delivers.
Such a sweetie pie
This melt-in-your-mouth Mazurian potato marjoram pie is a treasured family recipe, handed down from a Polish grandmother who knew the value of a good Maris Piper. It's packed with big flavours, like garlic, onion, bacon and " lots, lots" of marjoram. It's fair to say you're looking at your new favourite lunch.
A friendship with balls
Let's wrap this potato fest with a Turkish amuse-bouche. Bulgurlu köfte are perfect served with drinks as the sun goes down. Proving, once again, just what a treasured friend Spud is to all.
These light gnocchi are served with nutty browned butter and parmesan. With the greens, it's big, rich and flavourful. Once you’ve had gnocchi like this, there’s no other way to have them.
Potatoes, which are a New World ingredient, did not enjoy widespread use in Eastern Europe until the nine-teenth century. Once the starchy tubers caught on, they were embraced with gusto, and today these potato fritters, with tender, savory insides and crackly crusts, are the undisputed king of Ashkenazi Hanukkah celebrations.
The creamy feta is cut through by the caramelised onions in this fancy-yet-fast savoury tart.
The perfect fridge-ends dish: when the potatoes are left overnight, they dry out, so when you fry them they take on all the flavours and become incredibly crisp.
This creamy garlic-potato dip will give your favourite tartare sauce a run for its money.
Croquettes are typical of friggitoria (fried food shops), as they're inexpensive and simple: one main ingredient plus fresh herbs.
A giant potato rostï for sharing - Sunday morning breakfasts will never be the same again.
