Being in the industry for 15 years doesn’t give you experience for operating in a lockdown, according to Pub Life Kitchen operator Jovan Čurić.
However, his Serbian heritage might have helped. Balkan pride in hospitality, mixed with passion and commitment, has seen the Pyrmont based eatery stay in business during Sydney’s hardest lockdown yet.
“During the first lockdown (in 2020) I was working at a providore, so on the other end of the spectrum. So, when this lockdown came, I was energised by it. I had a full cool room, ready for a busy weekend.

Jovan in the Pub Life kitchen with his kids, during pre-pandemic times. Source: Jovan Curic
It was a challenge, but I was running on adrenaline. I just said, ‘ok – tomorrow, take away’ and then work out what we’re going to do moving forward, ” said Jovan.
Jovan loves what he does, and the community responded with the same.
The first dew days of the lockdown proved Pub Life Kitchen was worth fighting for.
“We had an overwhelming response from the community,” said Jovan.
Since then, Jovan and his wife, Dee, have brought a distinct flavour to Pyrmont.
The addition of traditional Serbian cuisine, ćevapi and pasulj , to their extensive take-away menu, as well as “do it yourself” burger kits for people to make at home, gave staff new goals to focus on.
“It’s community based, how involved you are as a restaurant. It’s hard enough running a restaurant without COVID, thinking about salaries, food costs.
Now, in a pandemic which no one has dealt with there are a whole new set of problems. My approach is, “well I’m trying this today, and if it doesn’t work I’ll try something else tomorrow”, said Jovan.
Many small businesses operating in Sydney are struggling to stay open.
With the lockdown now extended until at least the end of July, the New South Wales treasury estimated this week the cost of the shutdown will be $2.5 billion.
State Treasurer Dominic Perrottet said grants of between $5,00 and $10,00 are being made available for small businesses, with payroll tax deferral for employers.
The rescue package is expected to be expanded to include businesses and sole traders with an annual turnover of less than $75,000
While many have been forced to give up on the industry, Jovan said he is trying his best for his own team.
“I have a responsibility for my staff. I am responsible for them to take a pay check home to their kids, for their rent. I took it really personally.
I was someone who did get stood down in the initial outbreak, so I knew what it felt like. I had these guys looking at me from the kitchen and the restaurant, thinking ‘what’s happening? Are we going to keep going?’. And I said ‘yes, let’s do this’. As long as I can pay for wages, and the food costs, we’ll keep going.”
Going forward, Jovan said the hospitality sector in big Australian capitals will have long-term issues to solve.

Pub Life Kitchen is located within the Lord Wolseley Hotel, in Ultimo, Sydney. Source: Jovan Curic
“One of the biggest things will be the mental health of people in the industry. Am I going to survive another lockdown? Do I stay in the industry? Do I look for something more secure?
Hospitality as an industry is a mess, but it’s no less than important than construction. We all eat, we all grew up eating, a restaurant is about community.
So, to come out of this lockdown and then face staffing issues, which will happen with people jumping ship. I don’t know how it will look on the other end, it will be a challenge for sure.”
Don't forget to listen in Serbian! Click the cover photo for more.