The 'Chapels of LURV' History Walk was a part of the 2018 Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras schedule - and it was a day to remember.
The interactive tour, which pointed out sex clubs, drag bars, and public beats throughout Sydney's history, was presented by historian Robert French and four members of the Sisters of the Order of Perpetual Indulgence: Sister Salomé of the 9th Mystic Rhinestone, Sister Rowena (Keeper of the Holy Doily), Mother Premonstratensia, and Sister Catheter of the Sacred Immaculate Ejaculate. Try saying all of that three times in a row after a couple of cocktails!
French, a former chair of the Sydney Pride History Group, and Sister Salomé reiterated in their introductions that the point of the group's annual history walks is to share the human stories of Australia's LGBTQI+ history, and pass on knowledge of the area's rich queer history in order to preserve it.
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Green Park
Four Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence met a crowd of nearly 40 people in Green Park in Darlinghurst, which was once one of the busiest beats in Sydney. Source: Chloe Sargeant / SBS
When pubs would close at 10pm or earlier (depending on era), crowds of young gay men and women would flock from Kings Cross to late night venues in Oxford Street - the easiest passage to and from these venues was down Darlinghurst Road.
'The Wall' (the tall wall of Darlinghurst Jail) and Green Park was a popular meet-up spot and place for socialising - as well as a well-known beat.
Sister Salomé of the 9th Mystic Rhinestone said that Green Park was a very fondly-remembered place for many men; so much so that he has a memento from the park - a piece of the tile from old urinal that once stood there.
Sister Salomé of the 9th Mystic Rhinestone showing the crowd a precious relic - part of a tile that was once part of the urinal at the Green Park beat. Source: Chloe Sargeant / SBS
Sister Rowena, Keeper of the Holy Doyley, Mistress of Novices, kisses the sacred relic. Source: Chloe Sargeant / SBS
It has been attached to ribbon and adorned with a jewel - Sister Rowena (Keeper of the Holy Doyley) received the honour of kissing the sacred relic during the tour.
Taylor Square
Historian Robert French explains to the crowd that the now-closed underground toilets in Taylor Square were a popular (but dangerous) beat. Source: Chloe Sargeant / SBS
Taylor Square's beats were particularly dangerous due to the close proximity of the Darlinghurst Police Station, one of the most corrupt stations in Sydney. Source: Chloe Sargeant / SBS
So, the bathroom became a beat - but it was a dangerous one.
The Darlinghurst Police Station, which was known to be one of the most corrupt in Sydney, was right next to it. In the 1920s, the industry term for the station was 'Goldenhurst', because it was so lucrative for corrupt policeman who accepted bribes to turn a blind eye to alcohol, gambling, sex work, and drugs in nearby venues.
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Hyde Park South
The Paris Theatre, which screened a number of LGBTQI+ films, was a haven for queer folk. It was demolished in 1981 and replaced by a high-rise building. Source: Chloe Sargeant / SBS
French tells us that this area, and corner in particular, holds a wealth of LGBTQI+ history, including an infamous Turkish bath house, and the Paris Theatre — which screened many queer films and was a safe haven for queer folk before its demolition in 1981.
Just down Wentworth Avenue was also the home of Black Ada's in the 20s and 30s, a gay dance club that was held in an old studio and masqueraded as late night 'dancing classes'. The hostess, Black Ada, would only let you in if she knew you, and it cost 2/6 with supper, booze, and dancing. Police would visit at 1am most Saturday nights, and when the door downstairs was opened to police, a buzzer would be rung, and all the same-sex couples would quickly switch to heterosexual pairing and Black Ada would begin counting as if she were teaching a dance class.
At the southern end of Hyde Park is Museum Station, which was also a well-known beat. It was popular, but nowhere near as popular as St. James Station at the other end of the park. Those who wanted a little more privacy often favoured Museum.
Museum Station was another beat at the south end of Hyde Park, but was much more private than St. James Station. Source: Chloe Sargeant / SBS
As we walked towards Park Street through Hyde Park, we stopped by a statue of Captain Cook. French explains that that particular area of the park was a popular beat with men opting to have sex in bushes after dark — it became so popular that the council opted to rip up the footpaths to dissuade this (and no, it did not work).
He continues, "This area became a beat because, well... just look at the statue from this angle!"
Hyde Park North
In times when the northern end of Hyde Park didn't have lighting, the bushes near Archibald Fountain were popular hook-up spots. Source: Chloe Sargeant / SBS
As we stand around Archibald Fountain, French tells us that police would often have to get up very close when trying to arrest people for buggery. In order to get a conviction, police would often 'prove' a couple were having sex by shoving their hands in between them to... feel the evidence.
St. James Station
St. James Station was one of the most popular and well-known beats in Sydney. Source: Chloe Sargeant / SBS
From the time St. James Station was opened in 1926 it became a popular beat, and its popularity has spanned several eras.
Just across the road from St. James Station is David Jones. According to French (and some of the members of the tour audience), once upon a time the men's dressing rooms on the top level were a common hook-up spot.
The David Jones men's changerooms on the top floor were also a known beat in certain eras - according to French, staff would often turn a blind eye. Source: Chloe Sargeant / SBS
The staff members would allegedly turn a blind eye to what was happening in the change rooms.
Martin Place
As we continued our walk through to George Street, we stopped in Martin Place. French told us that Martin Place was historically a popular meeting spot in general in previous eras of Sydney's history, but Martin Place also contained a no-longer-accessible beat.
He explained that the strip used to have underground public toilets, and these would be a popular late night hook-up spot for gay men.
As we made our way through to Angel Place, French noted that while the location wasn't a beat, it was the location of the first homosexual demonstration, in 1971 - because Ash St used to be the old headquarters of the Liberal Party.
French explains that Ash St was once the location for the Liberal Party HQ, and was the location for a kamp demonstration about homosexual law reform in 1971. Source: Chloe Sargeant / SBS
C.A.M.P (the Campaign Against Moral Persecution), which was Sydney's first gay and lesbian rights group, held a peaceful event outside the headquarters in support of Tom Hughes, a candidate for pre-selection who was being called to stand down for supporting homosexual law reform.
Wynyard Park
Wynyard Park housed a number of popular beats. Source: Chloe Sargeant / SBS
The southern end of Wynyard Park had a underground men's toilet, which was a well-known beat. Source: Chloe Sargeant / SBS
He added that Wynyard Park itself housed a number of popular hook-up spots for homosexual men - including the now-defunct underground toilets at the southern end of the park.
The location of the former beat is where we gathered for a final group photo of the tour's participants.
If you have an opportunity to take part in the annual History Walks for Mardi Gras, run by the Sisters of the Order Perpetual Indulgence and Robert French, I'd highly recommend you go - the stories are important, the laughter is plentiful, and the whole experience is an overwhelming joy to be a part of.
The tour group standing on the stairs that once housed a popular Wynyard Park beat. (Photo: William Brougham) Source: William Brougham
Plus, it means you'll be able to assist in preserving and passing down snippets of Australia's rich LGBTQI+ history to future generations of queer people. They deserve to know all these secrets — the good, the bad, the ugly and the sexy — too.
The 40th Annual Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras will air on Sunday, March 4 at 8:30pm on SBS.
SBS Radio 3 will join forces with Australia's premier gay and lesbian community radio station, JOY 94.9, for a Mardi Gras weekend simulcast, which can be accessed via the SBS Radio mobile app, digital radio and around Australia on digital television.
