An ode to bánh mì

Forever fans of the crispy baguette, pork pâté and pickle combo, we delve into the fascinating history behind this beloved dish and the endless reasons this sandwich combo tugs at heartstrings and taste buds far and wide.

Bánh mì, why do we love thee? #1 democracy.
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By that we mean you can still find this tasty sandwich in Sydney – a city of over-priced everything – for a friendly $5. Cheaper than a McSomething meal (healthier and tastier, too), the roll is accessible to all sorts. At Sydney institution Marrickville Pork Roll, for instance, you’re guaranteed to find a colourful queue of international students, hipster types, tradies in hi vis, and even a suit or two. Sure, “cool Viet” cafes will jack up the price to double digits (a crime, IMO), but true bánh mì devotees know that hole-in-the-wall establishments and good-old Vietnamese bakeries are the only way to go.  

Reason number two? Bánh mì is delicious.
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In the west, we’re most familiar with bánh mì thịt nguội or bánh mì thịt (pork roll). Textural and full of punchy tastes, each bite is crunchy, meaty, tangy and fresh. The sambo starts with crusty baguette made of flour and, traditionally, a touch of rice flour. Next, the bun is moistened with mayonnaise, then layered with pork, pâté, crisp pickled vegetables – usually carrot and daikon – and sprigs of coriander, cucumber sticks and spring onion. Oh, and the daring always order chilli. 

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It really is the complete package.
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Let's break it down, put it all back together, then eat it with glee.

Bánh mì is a textural masterpiece with each element playing its role beautifully. You've got the herb-y freshness, the pickle crunch, the chilli hit, the meaty richness, and a healthy squirt of mayo to moisten everything up. Plus there's that crispy-on-the-outside-soft-on-the-inside baguette. 

The origins are pretty fascinating, too.
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A French-Vietnamese fusion, the sandwich – as we know it today – was first constructed in Saigon in the 1950s. But the extended tale of how bánh mì came to be is one of xenophobia, war and sheer entrepreneurialism. 

The French ruled Vietnam, then known as French Indochina, from the late 1800s until the mid-20th century. Hungry for Gallic gastronomy, the colonisers shipped in flour to make breads and pastries as wheat crops were stunted by Vietnam's harsh climate. Imports were, predictably, expensive, so only the French expats could afford bread, while the Vietnamese stuck to traditional rice. Xenephobia (stretching both ways) deterred the two cultures from sharing culinary knowledge or customs. In fact, it wasn't until the First World War, when Vietnamese soldiers fought for France, that Gallic foods, such as baguettes (bánh tày), became known and eaten among Viet locals. The simultaneous departure of French soldiers from the country also left an oversupply of European foods, which were suddenly affordable for the middle-classes.

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So where does the bánh mì bit come in?
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Well, the French custom of of "casse-croûte" – a light meal of baguette, cold meats, pâté, cheese and butter – was adopted by the Vietnamese following World War One... with a few twists. Rice flour was added to the bread mix thanks to its availability and the difficulties surrounding wheat importation; butter was swapped for mayo (a safer spread given the extreme heat); and pickled vegetables were added to pad out the sandwich as meat remained costly.

But it was savvy businessman Mr. Le who truly reinvented the wheel. First, he shortened the baguettes to 20 centimetre buns, which were more affordable to the masses. Next, he noticed diners didn't have time to linger, so he inverted the French-style open sandwich to make a sandwich with ingredients inside. These changes might seem simple, but they led to a French-inspired Vietnamese classic that's attracted a cult following all around the globe.

So bánh mì that's how we love thee.

Now it's time to eat!
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BBQ pork breakfast rolls

These pocket rockets hold their own come breakfast when all you want is porky goodness propped up by crunchy, sweet, vinegary pickles and a lick of mayo.

Pork terrine baguette (bánh mì cha lua)

Nothing beats a Vietnamese baguette for lunch. This Luke Nguyen recipe has you making your own pork terrine from scratch.

Mini pork bánh mì

Dan Hong loves bánh mì! This Ms G's recipe is smaller so diners could fit in other dishes onto their plates. The perfect balance of richness, acidity, texture, freshness and spice, basically everything you could want in a slider is right here.

Vietnamese baguette with fried fish cakes (bánh mì cha ca)

The fish baguette is one of Luke Nguyen's favourite street foods from his travels. Expect a great contrast of textures - from the crisp baguette to the bouncy fish cakes. This recipe certainly delivers.

Vietnamese baguette with fried fish cakes

Bánh mì thit

This is a simple recipe for a lunchtime favourite. Start from scratch by pickling the carrot and making the mayonnaise, then add crunch with fresh cucumber, coriander and chilli. Wow factor through the roof!

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Bánh mì camel burger

Camel eat isn't a usual suspect when it comes to bánh mì, but Adam Liaw's creation is surprisingly delicious. Focussing on a supreme burger patty, the dish is complemented with delicate pickles and a buttery brioche bun.

 

View our Vietnamese recipe collection here. For more Vietnamese cooking tips and tricks at home, check out our lowdown right here.

 

 

It's Vietnamese week on The Chefs' Line
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Illustrations by Kev Gahan from The Illustration Room.

Have we got your attention and your tastebuds? The Chefs’ Line airs every weeknight at 6pm on SBS followed by an encore screening at 9.30pm on SBS Food Network. Episodes will be available after broadcast via SBS On Demand. Join the conversation #TheChefsLine on Instagram @sbsfood, Facebook @SBSFood and Twitter @SBS_Food. Check out sbs.com.au/thechefsline for episode guides, cuisine lowdowns, recipes and more!