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Feature: A strange week in Bogota

The 13th Ibero-American Theatre Festival of Bogota coincides with Holy Week - a solemn time of fasting and prayer - in staunchly Catholic Colombia.

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3 min read

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Updated

By Michelle Hanna

Source: SBS


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The streets of Bogota are deserted and quiet. We have come to witness what claims to be the largest theatre festival in the world, yet there is barely a soul in sight.

We meet other foreign journalists in the hotel, and are ushered from theatre to theatre. There are others there of course; performers, backstage crew and audiences.

But back on the streets, quiet. Shops are closed, the roads are empty.

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The 13th Ibero-American Theatre Festival of Bogota coincides with Holy Week in this predominantly Catholic country. Traditionally a time of fasting and prayer, it seems odd that this celebratory festival event should take place at such a solemn period for the Catholic faith.

The festival was founded by an Argentine Jew, the much-loved, late Fanny Milkie, but apparently there is no agenda in its timing. Its staging during Holy Week was simply intended to make it easier for people to get around in this usually congested city.

When the festival was founded in 1988, it was a time of desolate desperation for the Colombian people; a period of civil armed conflict, drug cartels and horrific violence that was felt all over. The first festival was themed 'An Act of Faith', meaning an act of faith in Colombia.

It was to give the people something positive to have for themselves, a cultural celebration and a coming together. While the Catholic Church was initially not happy with the festival's timing, it is now a part of the life of the city during Holy Week.

As our week here goes on, people start to emerge onto the streets. The odd shop opens its shutters and small gatherings of people emerge before doorways.

A sense that the crowds have been hiding somewhere I was not becomes apparent, and soon it becomes clear that we are at a magnificent festival event, stretching from the poorest to the most-patronised parts of the city.

This year's festival hosts theatre companies from as far afield as Switzerland and South Korea, as well as special guests Romania. In addition to high-brow performances, there is free street theatre for the people of Bogota who can not afford a theatre ticket, but can afford to be enthralled. This is foremost a festival for the people.

Bogota's poorer southern districts typically house people violently displaced from their land in rural areas to make way for coca plantations. They bring their children to be entertained by the country's foremost performance companies. Even rain does not keep them away, with umbrellas and 'plastico' ponchos keeping them dry.

Back in the city, the churches are open and people spill outside as they take part in prayer.

Meanwhile, audiences gather around the theatres, moving from one show to the next.

The country has experienced a living history of violence that many Colombians will tell you even they do not understand. But they will also say the one thing that they do understand is music, and the need to feel life. This festival seeks to separate itself from the violent imagery surrounding it to celebrate life that is real and vivid, now.

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