A collection, says Carolina Herrera, should be a collection, not a potpourri.
"Sometimes the potpourris are fun to look at, but it doesn't make sense for me," said Herrera, a grande dame of New York Fashion Week, after her cohesive show on Monday of luxe coats, fur and bold geometric prints.
More than 30 years after her first runway show, which featured the supermodel Iman, Herrera manages new approaches. This time, her emphasis was daywear for elegant ladies, especially those not afraid of abstract prints, statement earrings and prints.
She also rounded the shoulders on jackets and narrowed the silhouettes of some dresses in a colour palette that ranged from black in boiled wool to fiery red silk that fluttered down the runway. Some of her models wore high fez-like hats in rich blue and brown, while others - including Karlie Kloss - had tight, high updos.
She used fur as an accent on some jackets to show off their shape, while going full-on fur elsewhere, including a burnished copper sleeveless top with a wide collar paired with a full skirt to the ground done in a marbled Jacquard.
Herrera, greeting well-wishers backstage, said she was inspired by the world of architecture.
"The prints were taken from architectural forms and translated to geometrical forms," she said.
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