In Tasmania, a new North Hobart venue is reflecting the Melbourne café scene for a group of grateful patrons.
It’s the vision of 34-year-old chef Con Vailas, a Tasmanian native who spent a lot of years in Melbourne’s inner city.
“Living in Melbourne, I spent a lot of time on my balcony playing guitar and I had this dream (of a café of my own) and I wanted to make it a reality. But I didn’t want to do it in Melbourne, which is oversaturated for this style of venue. So I thought it would be really cool to come home,” Con explains.
“The idea was literally born in Brunswick, hence the name,” he says.
“I am Greek, or of Greek descent. Mum and dad had shops our whole childhood, they have taught me an awful lot about work ethic and running a small business. And they showed me how to overcome challenges, how not to give up and to remain stubborn”.
Born in Brunswick a locally sourced, sustainable and seasonal eatery, aims to create a world-class eating experience.
Con Vailas with his father. Source: Supplied
"In terms of business, I felt there was a gap in the market here in Hobart. The produce you can work with and what you can do here is more interesting than anything we could ever have done in Melbourne”.
Con grew up in hospitality, working from 16 to 27 at Hadley's Hotel which is one of the oldest hotels in Australia.
The former reality TV cooking series contestant used his newfound fame to springboard the business, which opened in 2016.
“I'd say in terms of food and what we do, Hobart is the most bustling city in the country at the moment. I employ around 15 staff to help run the business, and it's just getting busier," he explains.
The all-day brunch menu contains delicacies like brisket, macaroni and cornichon croquette, with mustard crème fraîche, puffed amaranth, kimchi and a fried egg.
Many of the ingredients are foraged from the nearby scrub.
Head chef Josh Retzer combs local bushland collecting items like rose hip, used for jams and sauces.
He describes the flavour as quite sour, floral and fruity.
A local samphire bush supplies salty springs, used mainly as an accompaniment for seafood dishes, or lamb.
Their mission: to deliver a new style of Australian dishes blending fresh local produce with native flavours.
Head Chef Josh Retzer foraging for local ingredients. Source: Supplied
Re-building the Born in Brunswick venue was a costly exercise.
Con took over a former clothes shop, demolishing its low ceilings and false walls to create light-filled chambers, looking onto the tree-lined Elizabeth Street.
And Con’s re-fit cost of $400,000 will be slow to recoup.
“We've been able to knock a bit off our loan which is really good because not a lot of people get that opportunity in their first year of business,” he says.
“In terms of recouping, I think it's going to take quite some time because everything that we have, we pump back into the business. I mean I haven't paid myself since we opened,” he admits smiling.
“Hahaha yes, my hair is falling out, check it out. Yeah, it's stressful”.
“If you can find a good balance and you have a chef who knows how to cost a menu, and you have staff who are efficient and you’re getting bums on seats, then it’s no problem. Like any business, you’re going to make money but it requires the owner to put in hard yards as well,” Con says.
“I’ll spend 80 plus hours every week in here, and yes you just have to put in as much as you can because you only get out what you put in”.
