For most classically trained chefs and clued-up food buffs, the name Auguste Escoffier carries a certain resonance. Known as the first chef to record his recipes in an ordered, all-inclusive fashion on paper, his “bible” – to steal a term from Michel Roux Jr. – The Escoffier Cookbook remains a reference and source of inspiration.
“Good France” (a wordplay on “Goût de France”, meaning Taste of France) is a clear example of that ongoing inspiration. Now in its second year, the global initiative led by the French government brings Escoffier's concept of “Epicurean Dinners” to the 21st century in an effort to promote the excellence of French gastronomy.
Michelin-starred chef Xavier Mathieu, who runs a fine-dining restaurant at Le Phébus, a luxurious spa resort in the heart of Provence (see below for details of how to win a trip to see it yourself), is one of the French chefs involved in this epicurean idea. During his first trip Down Under, Xavier will be preparing a Provence-inspired dinner at the Sofitel in Sydney on March 21. (This dinner is sold-out, but you can find more details on other events here.) Ahead of Xavier's time in Oz, we spoke to the chef about his passion for cooking and where the French food scene is headed.
Why have you decided to participate in Good France? As a Michelin-starred chef and Maître Cuisinier de France, I cannot say “no” to representing and sharing what I am passionate about.
Le Phébus, Provence Source: SBS Food
What makes French gastronomy unique? It's completely part of our arts culture – the proof being that it has been declared a "world intangible heritage" by UNESCO. It's in the DNA of French culture, therefore unique by definition.
Good France's Epicurean Dinners honour Auguste Escoffier. Why is he such an important culinary figure? Auguste Escoffier, who originated from the South of France, made a huge contribution to French cuisine, as he had the intelligence to write (cook)books that are still proving it to this day. Most of the basis of French gastronomy comes from his essays. (For more on Escoffier, watch Michel Roux Jr.'s documentary The First Masterchef and read our interview with Roux here.)
The more time goes by, the more I strive for purity, looking for the essence of cooking as the way to perfection.
You've been cooking for more than 30 years. Where did your passion stem from? It's a childhood's dream! I used to admire my grandmother, Mémé Rose, while she was cooking on Sundays for our celebration lunches. These moments of sharing and love around succulent dishes were a thrill for me.
Do you have other influences? My masters, the ones who passed on the love and the respect I have for the French art de vivre, expressed through gastronomy, are Roger Vergé and Joël Robuchon, alongside whom I had the chance and the privilege to work.
Can you describe the cuisine of Provence? It's very rich with Mediterranean influences, very popular in most of the world thanks to its lightness (and) sunny flavours. In some cases, it can be very close to Italian or Spanish cuisine when you look at local dishes near the borders. I personally see it as the cuisine from the heart, because my origins are attached to it.
What are you most passionate about at the moment? Two things: looking for the best produce and the origins of not-well known recipes. Like in all the regions of France, ancient families and old books contain treasures, such as the rum omelette – it’s an incredible dessert – or the cheese soup, which later became the onion soup, and many others you can discover at my table.
Classic French cooking
French onion soup (soupe à l'oignon)
Has your style of cooking morphed over the years? My cooking hasn't stopped evolving with me. My thirst for discovery (is) always rooted in my origins. The more time goes by, the more I strive for purity, looking for the essence of cooking as the way to perfection.
Why should locals attend Good France events? It is a beautiful opportunity to celebrate French gastronomy on our first day of spring, and I don't think it's necessary to convince them, as lovers of the bon et beau (tasty and beautiful) will recognise themselves.
To find how you could win a trip for two to Provence, click here, or find the full list of Australian Good France events here.
Feast on film to win!
Feast on Film: What it is and why you need to watch
