Life on a cattle ranch in the United States seems to differ from outback Australia, but maybe it's just that the cowboy aesthetics are more distinctive there. This was certainly the case when I visited Sylvan Dale Guest Ranch in Colorado, western US.
Talk about setting the scene: the cattle ranch sits at the foothills of the almighty Rocky Mountains. Its main barn, a wooden-panelled 'wild west' structure, is filled with souvenirs and trinkets such as heeled cowboy boots, vintage 'saloon' signage, silver horseshoes and long horns – the sort of things you'd see in a classic western film. And, of course, what's a quintessential western experience without horses? Out in the paddock are horses – a dozen or so of 'em – with their big, doe brown eyes and long combed manes, all saddled up and ready to trot.
I couldn't wait to play the part. Away with my Akubra and in with my wide-brimmed straw hat, I was ready to giddy up and yell yeehaw! But I soon found that this ranch was more than about adult pony rides for wannabe cowboys and cowgirls – it was an insight into life at an American cattle ranch.
Australians say mate, Americans say dude
Australia has stations and the US has ranches. And at the heart of this particular ranch are family and food. The ranch has been family-run and operated since 1946, with husband-and-wife Dave Armstrong and Susan Jessup at the helm.
The place operates as a so-called 'dude ranch'. Dude ranches refer to the ranches which in the late 1800s provided hospitality to east coast city dwellers (dudes) who discovered that they were a great place to escape the hustle and bustle. The ranch owners were happy to host without charge, but eventually, they established their lodgings as businesses and they've been operating ever since.
Nowadays, dude ranches mix hospitality with heritage: guests are invited to embrace the ways of the past, including activities and home-cooked meals.
Enjoying an American barbie
My time at this Colorado dude ranch was the first time I went on horseback to my next meal. My new ranch buddies and I travelled single file across verdant terrain and along ridges.
Like the altitude, our senses were heightened. We could smell smoke from a barbecue and meat grilling on the coals. Holding the tongs was Armstrong. He was hardly your catalogue cowboy; he wore a comical trucker cap embroidered with 'cowboy hat'. Nice.
Away with my Akubra and in with my wide-brimmed straw hat, I was ready to giddy up and yell yeehaw!
Part of the unique experience on offer was a sundowner barbecue on the mountain. It was not your typical snag-on-the-barbie arrangement with family favourites. Instead, there were locally sourced thick rump steaks almost the size of dinner plates, a reddish pulled-pork stew mixed with pinto beans, and cooked sausage served with barbecued potatoes and salad. All the sauces you can imagine were on standby. It was a hearty feed, designed to replenish any hard-working rancher's energy stocks.
After we piled food on our plates, we sat around a wooden picnic table like a family, enjoying each other's company and scenery. We ate slowly to make the most of this remarkable setting. By the end, our eyes were bigger than our stomachs and I was glad to gallop down the hill.
While we ate, Armstrong and Jessup discussed life on the farm, their ranch community, being in the countryside and connecting with nature.
Their take took me back to my experiences of station stays in Australia. While the style of US ranches differs from Australian stations, it turns out they have things in common: wide open spaces and people enjoying the simple things in life, like sharing a love of a tender, juicy barbecue steak. Yeehaw!
Love this story? You can follow the author Instagram @theroamingflamingo
SBS Food is a 24/7 foodie channel for all Australians, with a focus on simple, authentic and everyday food inspiration from cultures everywhere. NSW stream only. Read more about SBS Food
Have a story or comment? Contact Us
