When Javed Khan moved to Sydney in 2000, opening a restaurant seemed nothing beyond a hopeful dream. But after six years working for a hospitality company, he noticed something missing in the city's dining scene: an Indian restaurant that combined elevated, authentic cuisine with the warm, attentive hospitality found in India's finest establishments. That gap became his calling, and in 2007, Delhi 'O' Delhi was born. The restaurant is deeply personal for Javed, shaped by his upbringing and journey. Even the name tells a story, honouring the place where he made his foray into the hospitality industry, woven together with the phrase "Darling oh darling" to create something meaningful yet playful: a memory of connection and home, but not without personality.
The first few years weren't without their challenges. On opening day, only six guests walked through the door. The second day? No one showed up. Friends warned him that Newtown wasn't the right spot for an Indian restaurant, that the demographic wanted something more casual and laid-back. But Javed had found his perfect location and refused to give up. Instead, he got creative, walking up and down King Street with canapés and menus in hand, inviting people to try his food.
Credit: MILAD K PHOTOGRAPHY
"My samples went straightaway, but no one was touching the menus!" Javed shares. "Slowly over the next few weeks we started talking and interacting with locals, and people began to recognise us. The restaurant is right below a block of apartments, and the residents there were the most supportive. In fact, they still come back after all these years!"
Strength and resilience through family
For Javed, the word "family" resonates through everything at Delhi 'O' Delhi. There's his team, the people who make the restaurant what it is, and he ensures they're recognised for their part in its success. This philosophy also extends to his suppliers. In 18 years, he's only changed three vendors, choosing instead to build deep relationships and trust. Then there's the Newtown community, which has evolved over the years but where he remains a beloved fixture. And finally, there are the recipes themselves, dishes adapted from his childhood that his team of chefs brings to life, honouring his past while bringing a wholly authentic taste of home.
"We listen to our guests and take their feedback, but we also draw a line. Every dish has a story, a narrative behind why it's on the menu, and that's what's important for me to maintain, that the food tastes like it would in India” says Javed.
Take Achama's Camel Curry, inspired by his grandmother who loved South Indian flavours, where coconut and spices come together in a fragrant curry. Javed added his own twist by using camel meat, which is unique and readily available in Australia. Other dishes pull from his childhood moving around India. His father worked for Indian railways, so the family relocated often, absorbing the country's regional cuisines.
Good korma karma
The family connection goes even deeper with Delhi ‘O’ Delhi’s Good Karma (korma) initiative. One of nine siblings, Javed tragically lost his older brother to cancer just three months shy of his 54th birthday. The endless hospital visits in Mumbai left their mark, especially watching young children go through chemotherapy. After his brother passed, Javed knew he wanted to honour his memory with something incredibly meaningful and closer to home. The lamb korma became that tribute, with the word ‘korma’ reminding him of ‘karma’. Now, $2 from every dish sold goes to the Kids Cancer Project, along with proceeds from an annual charity dinner, raising over $40,000 in proceeds since first being established.
Delhi 'O' Delhi's lamb korma.
While the Indian community prepares for Diwali (the biggest Hindu festival of the year), Delhi 'O' Delhi is putting on a special dinner to share these traditions and celebrate the start of the festive season. Though Javed isn't Hindu, he has fond memories of celebrating the festival as a child. Clay lamps and sparkling fairy lights would illuminate the city, celebrating the festivals spiritual roots while serving as a reminder that good can triumph over darkness, even in the most difficult times.
"India is such a diverse country with so many different cultures and people from all religious backgrounds" says Khan. "I remember everyone in my neighbourhood celebrating Diwali together, regardless of where we came from. Our menu at Delhi 'O' Delhi reflects this sentiment - the set menu features dishes from all over the country, and they're all meant to be shared and enjoyed together. The desserts are my favourite part, as it's customary to share something sweet to bring good fortune and luck."
With his resilience, optimism and deep love for the community, Javed has turned Delhi ‘O’ Delhi into a beloved Newtown institution. After all these years, he still wakes up with fresh ideas and looks forward to the future. He is well known in the hospitality community, sitting on the board for the NSW Restaurant and Catering Association and works closely with Indigenous Elder, educator, and cook Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo, bridging cultures and learning from First Nations people in both India and Australia to start conversations and build understanding across nations.
Javed Khan, owner of Indian restaurant Delhi 'O' Delhi. Credit: MILAD K PHOTOGRAPHY
"Honestly speaking, my strength is my team. Walking through the doors after 18 years, my excitement level is still the same. Before there were a lot of nerves, but now I am not nervous. For anyone who comes through that door, we don't see them as a customer but as a guest. In India we have a saying that 'guest is god,' and it's something I've carried with me all this time. If I provide good food and great hospitality, then the rest will follow."
