Matt Preston reveals where extraordinary food begins

Butter that changes flavour with the seasons as cows graze on varied pastures; hazelnuts which are so much bigger and sweeter than most of us would imagine possible; and cheese that was made as part of a circular farming system where pigs consume the leftover whey.

These are just some of the extraordinary ingredients and ideas featured in Matt Preston’s Plating Locally, a new SBS series that goes behind the scenes to meet the remarkable people finding new ways to grow and produce food across Australia and New Zealand.

Host and former MasterChef Australia judge Matt Preston travels through Western Australia, South Australia, Victoria, Tasmania and New Zealand, meeting farmers, fishers, winemakers and food makers.

He visits abalone reefs, vineyards, orchards, fishing communities and working farms exploring everything from butter to seafood and pork to wine, before cooking dishes inspired by each destination.

Though the series showcases impressive ingredients and stunning scenery, the real stories of the people behind the exceptional produce are what make it stand out.

“They are stories of innovation, family and heritage,” Preston tells SBS.

Preston explains that although these producers have different reasons for pursuing their craft, they all share a determination to keep pushing their work further.

“What's interesting is that their drives are actually very different,” Preston says. “But they all have one thing in common: they refuse to settle for ‘that’ll do’.

"These producers are people who say, 'what can I do to improve?' 'How can I make this food even better?'”

During the series, viewers see that mindset extend as producers find solutions to the challenges they face.

Faced with the challenge of excess whey, one innovative cheesemaker found a sustainable solution: feeding the waste product to pigs, creating a vital loop in a circular farm ecosystem. “I think [this example] shows a cleaner, better and more ethical way of producing the food we eat."

Long hours, unpredictable conditions and the financial pressures of farming and food production sit alongside that determination. Some producers juggle other work to make a living, while continuing to invest time and energy into producing food they believe can be better. Preston says there are common themes running through the series, including the realities of working with nature.

“One theme is hardship. Another is the unpredictable nature of working with the elements, whether that's bushfires or algae bloom or just the weather and just sitting cold and wet. These all have a big impact [on the production of our food].”

The places behind the food

Beautiful landscapes are woven through the series, highlighting the importance of the places where food is grown, raised, caught and made.

"I love the combination of landscapes and people," Preston says. "[The series captures] the contrast of a tough way of life against a beautiful environment."

Preston explains that filming the new series provided him with a chance to look more closely at places producing food he has spent decades writing about, as a food journalist. After travelling overseas for much of the previous year, he returned to Australia to film the new series, exploring destinations such as the Tamar Valley, Port Elliot and Cape Mentelle, along with trout streams and working farms.

Preston tells SBS he believes the series will leave audiences feeling proud of the people producing extraordinary food across Australia and New Zealand, and inspired to seek out innovative producers closer to home.

“The idea [for this series], right from the beginning, was that we wanted it to be a hymn to producers. So that is what the series is: a hymn to the people who grow our food.

"Hopefully people come away from watching the series feeling a bit of pride that we have these people who are doing amazing things in our country."

The food journalist asks audiences to slow down to take the time needed to really watch the series, and appreciate the people and stories behind the food.

"I want people who watch the series to sit down with a cup of tea and let the episode wash over them. I want them to feel themselves being calmed by it, to feel their soul being cleansed by watching good stories about good people. I think, at its simplest, that's what the series is all about."

Matt Preston's Plating Locally premieres on SBS Food and SBS On Demand on Wednesday 12 August at 8.30pm. The eight-part series airs weekly on SBS Food, with new episodes available to stream on SBS On Demand.