“It never ceases to amaze me that a simple ingredient can be transformed into something far more delicious, nutritious and complex-tasting with the power to enhance my wellbeing,” says Holly Davis.
The Sydney-based wholefoods pioneer (she was one of the co-founders of Sydney’s Iku Wholefoods chain) is deeply passionate about fermenting, and has been teaching others how to do it for 40 years – well before kombucha became commonplace on supermarket shelves and research began to make us all more aware of the importance of our gut microflora.
With her new book Ferment: A Practical Guide to the Ancient Art of Making Cultured Foods sharing both beginner-friendly and more unusual fermented recipes (see below for your chance to win a copy), we chatted to her about why fermenting is so rewarding, and how easy it is for beginners to get started.
Why do you want to help others discover how to ferment?
It is so simple to master and there is magic in seeing an inert jar ignite, to seemingly ‘boil’ (the meaning of ferment) with life. Knowing that the beneficial beasties at work are also producing valuable nutrients to support my digestion thrills me. As the fermentation revival has grown, it seems that now is the perfect time to share some of my experience and joy with those who wish to join the throng. My wish is always to seduce people into better ways of eating without ever bashing them over the head and suggesting they ‘should’ do something ‘because it is good for you’. No, for me eating and cooking are two of life’s great pleasures.
What are some of your favourite things to ferment?
That’s like asking which child do you like best! I love ferments of all sorts. Dill-pickled cucumbers served cold on a hot summer’s day and crunched in the sun; a swig of mead I made as I transfer it to bottles to drink or age. I adore hot, crunchy kimchi or using the kimchi paste to dress an oily, chargrilled fish. Lifting the lid on the pot I am baking a loaf of sourdough in never fails to delight me – this is the moment I see how well the dough was shaped and whether it has risen to fill the pot. And it also means there is not long to go until it can be eaten.
Take your roast or barbecue chicken game to the next level with this shio-koji chicken recipe that yields a sticky and crisp skin
Roast shio-kuji chicken Source: Murdoch Books / Ben Dearnley
What are some of the basic principles of fermentation?
The process of fermentation pre-digests and preserves ingredients, making them safe to eat for weeks, months or in some cases years beyond their fresh state. Variety, complex flavours and textures, or to preserve an excess of seasonal produce, may all be reason enough, but fermentation can also restore life to denatured foodstuffs, such as culturing pasteurised milk.
A ferment may also be described as a ‘pickle’ or ‘culture’, but not all pickles or vinegars are naturally fermented. Look for the terms ‘cultured’ or ‘naturally fermented’ when buying commercial products.
What are some of the health benefits of fermentation?
Research suggests that our resident microbial communities have the power to influence our immune system, digestion, the absorption of nutrients in the foods we eat and more. Beneficial gut bacteria help us in the production of vitamins B3, B5, B6, B7 (biotin), B9 (folate), B12 and K, which are important for a range of bodily functions.
What would you recommend a beginner start with, if they wanted to get into fermentation?
I suggest people flick through the chapters of my book until a recipe calls to them and says ‘Oh yes, I want to eat that’. There are very simple recipes, and many that only require one ingredient and a little salt and seasoning. Look for a process that makes you think ‘I can do that’ and start there.
For me, a well-stocked pantry will make the production of a nourishing meal so much simpler. Soak nuts, seeds, grains or beans well ahead of time, to speed up cooking and improve digestibility and nutrition. What seems like a lot of work then becomes instantly more achievable.
What basic equipment would you recommend buying?
For wild fermenting fruit and vegetables, you can use what you have, like recycled glass jars. And op shops are a great place to look for a crock. If you wish to bake sourdough then look out for an old cast iron pot to bake in, and invest in baker’s bread tins which should be heavy for their size and tapered at the base (which assists the dough to rise). Airlocks are useful when steeping ingredients and for brewing. Brewers will need a few pieces of equipment: flagons, airlocks and a syphon (though a piece of new rubber hosing can be used instead as long as you’re not concerned that you will need to start the flow by sucking on one end!).
What are some fermenting mistakes?
Thinking that it is too hard or dangerous. There are processes in my book that are so simple you will marvel at them. Children can do it. A foodstuff that has been fermented is about as safe as you can get, as it is being protected by the beneficial, acid-producing bacteria it contains. Spoilers are unwelcome and unlikely as they cannot survive in the level of acidity lactobacillus produces.
When making wild ferments it is important to use enough sea salt to protect the ingredients while the good bacteria produce enough acid to take over. Under-salting can result in a softer texture or possible infiltration by moulds.
Being in a hurry is a mistake – patience results in more complex flavours and better texture. Most ferments can be eaten at any stage of their development but they are perhaps most useful as a source of probiotic support when they are about as acidic as orange juice or a mild vinegar.
Make sure all equipment used – and you – are well washed in hot soapy and then clear water.
What is the quickest fermentation recipe you know?
My live green booch dressing dressing can be made in ten minutes using kombucha that has become too sour to drink (this could be one you made, or one you bought).
Make Holly's delicious herb booch vinaigrette and serve it over this wholesome broad bean salad with pepitas
Broad bean salad Source: Murdoch Books / Ben Dearnley
You can only ferment one thing forever more, what is it?
This is a terrible thought and pretty much unthinkable. So much of what we all consume involves fermentation. What would life be like without sourdough bread, olives, vanilla beans, coffee, tea, dill-pickled cucumbers, krauts and all those wonderful cheeses? If I had to name one I guess it might be dairy kefir, because with it I know I would have diversity and the makings of many a cheese. As an ex-vegan, I have no wish to live without this food group ever again.
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