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From Peru to Zimbabwe: the migrant kitchens shaping Perth’s dining scene

Behind some of Perth’s most compelling restaurants are stories of migration, resilience and reinvention. These kitchens offer more than meals, they’re a window into the cultures shaping modern Australia.

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Le Vietnam, Perth.

Australia’s food story is inseparable from migration. Across the country, family recipes carried in suitcases have evolved into thriving restaurants that reflect both heritage and place. Perth, perhaps more than any other Australian city, tells that story beautifully. Its isolation has long made it a landing point for migrants who arrived with culinary traditions and a determination to share them with their new communities.

Today, Perth diners can taste those journeys in everything from Vietnamese bánh mì to Peruvian ceviche. The chefs behind these venues aren’t just cooking meals; they’re preserving culture, translating memory and building bridges between homelands and Western Australia’s rich produce.

Here are five migrant-inspired kitchens helping shape Perth’s modern food identity.

Lima Cantina, Leederville

Bringing Peru's flavours to Lima Cantina

For Miguel Bellido, opening Lima Cantina in Leederville in 2023 was both a professional milestone and a personal homecoming. Born in Lima and shaped by more than two decades in hospitality across Barcelona, Los Angeles, Melbourne and Peru, Bellido has built a career around sharing the culture of his homeland through food and drink.

“Peruvian cuisine is truly a reflection of migration,” he explains. “Indigenous ingredients like corn, potatoes and chillies form the foundation, but influences from Chinese, Japanese and Spanish traditions have created something uniquely Peruvian.”

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Lima Cantina, Leederville, Perth. Credit: Supplied

Those culinary layers appear across the Lima Cantina menu. The kingfish tiradito nods to Peru’s Japanese–Peruvian Nikkei cuisine through delicate slicing and presentation, while dishes like lomo saltado reflect the Chinese Chifa tradition. Beef anticucho, a smoky grilled skewer, traces its roots to Afro-Peruvian communities in Chincha.

Some elements, however, were non-negotiable. “Ceviche is the heart of Lima,” Bellido says. “Getting the leche de tigre just right is essential.” Western Australia’s exceptional seafood makes that possible, the restaurant uses local goldband snapper to deliver a ceviche that is both authentic and distinctly West Australian.

Equally central is pisco, Peru’s national spirit. “The Pisco Sour is the most important drink in celebrating our culture,” he says. “Introducing it to Leederville has been incredibly rewarding.”

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Credit: Supplied.

What surprises Bellido most is how curious Perth diners are. “Many arrive not knowing much about Peruvian food, but once they taste it they really connect with the freshness and bold flavours.”

Lal Qila, Morley

North Indian tradition with royal roots

For more than two decades, Lal Qila has been a quiet force in Perth’s dining scene, long before Indian and Pakistani cuisine became part of Australia’s everyday food language. Established in Morley in 2019 as one of Western Australia’s first Pakistani restaurants of its kind, owner Khadim Hussain describes it as “a way to bring the taste of home to a place that didn’t yet have it.”

Inspired by Mughal cuisine, the richly spiced, slow-cooked dishes once served in royal courts, the menu leans into tradition. “These recipes are not trends,” Hussain says. “They’ve been passed down through generations, and we honour them with time, patience and respect.”

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The buffet at Lal Qila. Credit: Supplied

Butter chicken arrives silky and balanced, lamb rogan josh deeply aromatic, while naan breads emerge blistered from the tandoor. Kebabs, biryanis and layered curries reflect what Hussain calls “the grandeur and depth of Mughlai cooking, food that was designed to impress.”

But beyond the menu, Lal Qila carries a broader story, one familiar across Australia’s hospitality landscape. “Like many migrant families, we started with what we knew best, our food, our culture, our hospitality,” he says. “Over time, the community grows with you.”

That sense of continuity is part of Lal Qila’s staying power. “We focus on authenticity, hygiene, and creating an atmosphere that feels both elegant and welcoming,” Hussain adds.

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On the tools at Lal Qila. Credit: Supplied

Today, it remains a place where Perth locals and diaspora families gather, drawn by flavours that are both deeply rooted and generously shared.

Coccodrillo Pizza & Vino, Cottesloe

Italian passion meets Western Australian produce

Few migrant cuisines have shaped Australia as profoundly as Italian food. In Perth, restaurateur Nino La Verghetta has spent more than a decade celebrating that heritage - a journey that began long before he opened his first restaurant.

Nino La Verghetta grew up in a small town in Abruzzo, surrounded by farmers and fishermen, where food was central to everyday life. “Meals were never just about eating,” he says. “They were about family, conversation and sharing time together around the table.” That sense of connection continues to guide his cooking today.

His latest venue, Coccodrillo Pizza & Vino in Cottesloe, follows the success of his earlier restaurant Pappagallo, blending Italian tradition with the remarkable produce of Western Australia.

“Italian cuisine is simple, so the quality of ingredients is everything,” La Verghetta explains. “I import key ingredients from Italy, like tomatoes and flour, to keep the flavours authentic, but I also love combining them with the incredible produce we have here in Western Australia.”

That philosophy is clear across the menu, from airy, blistered pizzas to pasta dishes that celebrate simplicity. “Many people think Italian food is complicated,” he says. “But authentic Italian cooking is about a few elements done well and letting the ingredients speak.”

La Verghetta has also watched Perth’s Italian food scene evolve. “When I first started, dishes were often adapted to local tastes. Today people are more curious and open to discovering regional Italian flavours.”

One dish captures his story best: brodetto di pesce alla Vastese, a seafood stew from the Abruzzo coast. “It represents my roots and the flavours I brought with me to Perth,” he says - fittingly so, as Vasto is a sister city of Perth.

Peasants Paradice, CBD

African food with community at its heart

Zimbabwe-born chef Dwight Alexander opened Peasants Paradice to share the flavours that shaped his childhood and introduce Perth diners to the depth of African cuisine. Growing up in a Zimbabwean “coloured” family with strong Cape Malay influences, Alexander remembers kitchens filled with the scent of masalas and atchar, aunties rolling koeksisters and samosas, and uncles gathered around the braai grilling meats. Those memories remain the heart of his cooking.

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Dwight Alexander, Peasants Paradice. Credit: Supplied

“African food is incredibly diverse,” he says. “For me, Peasants Paradice is about celebrating that diversity while honouring my own roots.” His menu reflects this mix of heritage and experience, blending traditional flavours with his own modern interpretations.

For diners new to African cuisine, Alexander often recommends starting with a curry. “It gives people something familiar, but the flavours are different. Once they trust that first dish, they’re more willing to explore the rest of the menu.”

Many recipes draw directly from family traditions. His mother’s chicken and butterbean curry, for instance, inspired a dish built on three different curry powders, while a pickling spice blend recreates the flavours of her Easter pickled fish.

Community is just as important as cuisine. Alexander partners with organisations such as Homeless Health Care WA, cooking meals and hosting events that bring people together. “Food has always been about connection,” he says. “It’s how cultures meet, share stories and understand one another.”

Le Vietnam, CBD

A bánh mì revolution in the heart of Perth

In Perth’s CBD, Le Vietnam has quietly turned a humble Vietnamese sandwich into one of the city’s most recognisable lunch rituals. Behind it is Vietnamese-Australian restaurateur DJ Lee, whose unlikely journey from international DJ to café owner began with a longing for home.

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Lee and family at Le Vietnam. Credit: Supplied

“I was travelling constantly for music,” Lee says. “At first it seemed exciting, but eventually it became quite lonely. I just wanted to be back in Perth with friends and family again.”

Food offered a path forward. Raised in a traditional Vietnamese household, Lee grew up around nightly family dinners where whatever his mother cooked was what everyone ate. “We learnt to value food,” he says. “Western treats like KFC were a weekend prize.” Those cross-cultural flavours later sparked the creativity behind his menu.

Back in Perth in 2014, Lee noticed that while cafés were everywhere, few specialised in bánh mì. “People told me I was crazy to focus on one thing,” he laughs. “They said I needed rice, noodles and soup to survive.”

Instead, Lee doubled down on the sandwich. Through travels in Vietnam he learnt that great bánh mì begins with the bread (light inside, crisp outside) and that the fillings should always balance richness with freshness. At Le Vietnam, that philosophy allows creativity to flourish, from wagyu beef to unexpected collaborations with local producers.

“Anything can become a bánh mì if the flavours are balanced,” Lee says. “You respect the heritage, but you’re not afraid to evolve it.”

The migrant story on the plate

What connects these restaurants isn’t just excellent food. It’s the stories behind them.

Migration has always shaped Australia’s kitchens. Recipes carried across oceans evolve with new ingredients and new communities, becoming something both familiar and entirely new.

In Perth, those stories feel especially vivid. A DJ recreates his own version of the staple Vietnamese bánh mì. An Italian restaurateur brings his homeland’s flavours to a beachside suburb. An African chef shares dishes rarely seen on Australian menus. Together, they form a culinary map of migration - proof that the most exciting food cities aren’t defined by one cuisine, but by the many cultures that contribute to them.


SBS Food is a 24/7 foodie channel for all Australians, with a focus on simple, authentic and everyday food inspiration from cultures everywhere. NSW stream only. Read more about SBS Food

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9 min read

Published

By Rebecca Foreman

Source: SBS



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