This unapologetically Spanish bar honours Granada's tapas tradition

Expect tapitas on the house with each drink at Sydney's Bar Tapa.

Bar Tapa is Sydney's new "unapologetically Spanish" tapas bar.

Bar Tapa is Sydney's new "unapologetically Spanish" tapas bar. Source: Bar Tapa

“When you walk through the doors of Bar Tapa you are in Spain, not a watered down version of a Spanish bar.”

Sarah Miller, co-owner of Darlinghurst’s new Bar Tapa, isn’t exaggerating in her description of she and husband Manuel Terron’s new project. The couple have spared little detail in breathing authenticity into Bar Tapa. There’s the artworks and knick-knacks strewn through the venue, thrifted from antique shops in Gran Canaria. Then there’s the Spanish-trained Michelin starred chefs in the kitchen, proficient in the art of tapa.

When they signed the lease on Stanley Street, Terron and Miller jumped on a plane, flew to Spain and drove 3,000km around the country to haul back fresh ideas – and a few Sevillian tiles for their fit-out.
Knick-knacks and tiles were hauled over from Spain for Bar Tapa's fit-out.
Knick-knacks and tiles were hauled over from Spain for Bar Tapa's fit-out. Source: Bar Tapa
Bar Tapa’s menu and service style leans towards the Andalucía region in the south of Spain, where plates were historically slung to diners for free with a drink, and portions were small enough for them to make a progressive meal out of the night, weaving their way through the town.

This style of service began as a piece of bread, ham or cheese that was placed on top of a drink to keep flies out, explains Miller. 

“Tapa literally translates to ‘top’ or ‘lid’. Over time, the tradition evolved and more elaborate ‘tapas’ started to accommodate the drink.”

Harder to replicate nowadays, especially in a city where rental prices usually push the triple digits, Bar Tapa is still doing its bit to honour the Andalucía tradition by offering a tapita (canapé-sized tapas) – gratis with each beverage.
Pulpo a la Gallega is octopus over potato with smoky paprika.
Pulpo a la Gallega is octopus over potato with smoky paprika. Source: Bar Tapa
“We definitely can't do it Granada style!” Miller admits. “But Mannie and I have done tonnes of research – we’ve crunched the numbers and have figured out a sustainable way to do a tapita service while still keeping our prices very reasonable with quality products. 

“We love that we are able to do it and for us, it is an essential part of Bar Tapa.”

Speaking of drinks, it’s a 100 per cent Spanish affair, with Estrella on tap, a truckload of imported sherries (Miller and Terron would like to see the fortified wine go mainstream in Australia) and the easy-drinking red wine and coke cocktail, kalimotxo.

Spanish cocktails like sangria, plus beer and wines abound.
Spanish cocktails like sangria, plus beer and wines abound. Source: Bar Tapa


Patatas Bravas, pulpo a la Gallega (octopus over potato with smoky paprika), gazpacho and higado encebollado (livers in wine sauce) are a few of the menu crowd favourites so far. They’re also doing migas, a typical pastoral Spanish and Portuguese dish of sautéed cured meats, breadcrumbs and egg. There’s an extensive jamon de la Casa menu (where the pork is cured the Spanish way but prepared locally,) plus other Spanish meats and cheeses.
Gazpacho, Patatas Bravas and paella keep things traditional.
Gazpacho, Patatas Bravas and paella keep things traditional. Source: Bar Tapa
Lunch features bocadillos (sandwiches) of calamares con alioli, potato tortilla, or pepito (pork loin) on crusty white baguettes.
Bar Tapa's website claims they are “unapologetically Spanish”, which could be right on the money in this case. 

“For us, it’s not just about selling Spanish food and drinks,” says Miller, “It’s about the Spanish culture and not ‘Australianising’ it.”


Tues - Fri 12pm - 12am; Sat 5pm - 12am

78 Stanley Street, Darlinghurst NSW




 


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3 min read

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By Mariam Digges


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