Chicken momos in jhol

These chicken-filled dumpings in jhol – a fragrant, spicy tomato sauce – are a popular street food in Kolkata. Use store-bought wrappers or make your own with this recipe.

• serves

  4

• prep

  20 minutes

• cook

  15 minutes

• difficulty

  Mid

With roots in Tibet, Nepal and the wider Himalayan region, these delicious dumplings made their way south via Darjeeling, a hill station nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas, to the streets of Kolkata in the 1960s.

Steamed or fried, momos can be stuffed with a range of fillings, from minced (ground) chicken to paneer or vegetables. What sets Bengali momos apart is the infusion of local spices and ingredients like mustard oil, garlic, ginger and green chillies, which makes them more robust and suited to the fiery preferences of Bengali tastebuds.

My favourite variation pairs chicken with a rich, tangy and spicy sauce known as jhol. It is essentially a Bengali interpretation of a tomato chutney that’s thickened with a blend of spices and often features a base of mustard oil. Jhol is renowned for its boldness – it is fragrant, fiery and tangy, with a balance of sweetness and heat that complements the softness of the dumplings. As a result, chicken momos in jhol have become a beloved part of Kolkata’s vibrant street food culture.

Ingredients

• 1 quantity homemade wrappers (see below), if making, or 20 store-bought wrappers
• ½ bunch fresh coriander (cilantro), leaves chopped, to garnish
• 2 green chillies, chopped, to garnish

Momo wrappers

• 2 cups (300 g/11 oz) plain (all- purpose) flour
• 3 tbsp sesame oil
• pinch of salt

Filling

• 500 g (11 lb 2 oz) minced (ground) chicken
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tbsp ginger paste
• 1 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tbsp sesame oil
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp ground coriander
• ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
• ½ bunch fresh coriander (cilantro), leaves and stems chopped
• salt, to taste

Jhol

• 45 g (1½ oz) ghee
• ½ onion, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp garlic and ginger paste
• ½ tsp chilli powder
• ½ tsp ground cumin
• ½ tsp ground turmeric
• 2 tbsp tomato paste
• 4 tomatoes, chopped
• ½ tsp sugar
• juice of 1 lime
• 2 tbsp peanuts
• 2 tbsp sesame seeds
• 2 cups (500 ml/17 fl oz) chicken stock

If making your own wrappers, allow an extra 30-35 minutes of preparation time. The ingredients for the filling and jhol can be chopped and prepared while the wrapper dough rests.

Instructions

1. If making wrappers, mix the flour, sesame oil and salt in a bowl. Gradually add ¼ cup of lukewarm water and mix until the dough comes together. Knead by hand for about 8 minutes until smooth, then cover the dough with plastic wrap and rest at room temperature for 20 minutes.
2. Once the dough has rested, divide it into 25 × 12 g (¼ oz) portions. On a clean, lightly floured benchtop, roll each portion into a small circle around 8 cm (3¼ in) in diameter. (Alternatively, use store-bought wrappers.)
3. To make the filling, mix all the ingredients until evenly distributed and season with salt.
4. Add a small spoonful of the filling into the centre of each dumpling wrapper, being careful not to overfill. For a simple approach, fold the wrapper into a half-moon shape and pinch the edges shut, sealing the dumpling. If you want to be more intricate, pleat it into the traditional ‘modak’ shape, ensuring each fold is secure.
5. Continue until all the wrappers are used, then place the momos in a baking paper-lined steamer. Let them steam for about 10 minutes; they will turn plump and glossy, and the filling will firm up.
6. While the momos are steaming, make the jhol. Heat the ghee in a frying pan and fry the onion, garlic and ginger paste and dry spices for 5–6 minutes on medium heat, until golden brown and aromatic. Add the tomato paste, chopped tomato, sugar and lime juice, stir to combine then allow the mixture to cool slightly.
7. While the tomato base cools, toast the peanuts and sesame seeds in a dry frying pan. Add to the cooled tomato mixture (you can reserve a little of the toasted peanut to garnish) and, using a hand blender, blitz until smooth.
8. In a small saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a simmer. Stir in the blended tomato paste and cook for 2–3 minutes until you get a thick, bright reddish-orange jhol. Place the momos into serving bowls, ladle over the spicy jhol and garnish with the coriander leaves and chilli.

This is an edited extract from Smoke, Rice, Water by Kishwar Chowdhury (Hardie Grant Books). Food photography by Armelle Habib.

Cook's Notes

Oven temperatures are for conventional; if using fan-forced (convection), reduce the temperature by 20˚C. | We use Australian tablespoons and cups: 1 teaspoon equals 5 ml; 1 tablespoon equals 20 ml; 1 cup equals 250 ml. | All herbs are fresh (unless specified) and cups are lightly packed. | All vegetables are medium size and peeled, unless specified. | All eggs are 55-60 g, unless specified.