Radish with dried shrimp (Mula shutki)

Mula shutki is humble in its onset, but bold in flavour. The crisp, slightly bitter radish tames the intensity of the dried shrimp, mellowing its sharpness into something deeply warming and satisfying.

• serves

  4

• prep

  10 minutes

• cook

  15 minutes

• difficulty

  Easy

Shutki, the deeply pungent, umami- laden dried fish, evokes a visceral reaction, dividing people into devoted enthusiasts or wary onlookers. But for those of us who grew up with its intoxicating aroma wafting through the kitchen, shutki is more than just stinky fish – it’s an unshakable part of our culinary identity, whether you like it or not! Born of coastal and river communities where preservation was key, dried fish has been an essential part of Bengali cuisine for centuries....

My mother would make this dish whenever winter radishes were at their peak, the white flesh soaking up all the flavours of the shutki- infused broth, the mustard oil, the green chillies. Now, I find myself craving it every time I see a bunch of radishes at the market.

This is not a dish for the faint- hearted, nor is it meant to be. It’s for those who embrace the bold, the unapologetic and the beautifully preserved flavours of a cuisine shaped by water, salt and time.

Ingredients

• pinch of ground turmeric, plus ½ tsp extra
• 15–20 cherry belle or watermelon radishes, quartered
• 20 g (¾ oz) dried shrimp (or any other small, dried fish, including anchovies)
• 3 tbsp mustard oil
• ½ tsp nigella seeds
• ¼ onion, diced
• 3 garlic cloves, sliced
• ½ tsp chilli powder
• 2 green chillies, slit down the middle
• 1 handful fresh coriander (cilantro) leaves, chopped
• salt, to taste

Instructions

1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and add a pinch of turmeric. Drop in the radishes and parboil for 2–3 minutes, until they’re tender but still have a bit of bite. Drain the radishes and set aside. In the meantime, soak the dried shrimp in warm water for about 10 minutes until slightly softened. Drain the shrimp and set aside.
2. Heat the mustard oil in a heavy- based frying pan over medium heat. When the oil is slightly smoky, add the nigella seeds and let them crackle for a few seconds. Next, toss in the onion and garlic, sautéing them until soft and fragrant. Sprinkle over the remaining ½ tsp of ground turmeric and the chilli powder, then add the soaked shrimp. Stir, then let the mixture cook for a couple of minutes, allowing the shrimp to release its deep, umami flavour into the oil.
3. Add the parboiled radishes and toss well, coating the radishes in the spice- infused oil and shrimp. Let the radishes cook with minimal stirring for 4–6 minutes, until they develop a slight char and absorb the flavours. finish by adding the slit green chillies and fresh coriander, mixing them through just before serving. Season with salt as needed.

This is an edited extract from Smoke, Rice, Water by Kishwar Chowdhury (Hardie Grant Books). Food photography by Armelle Habib.

Cook's Notes

Oven temperatures are for conventional; if using fan-forced (convection), reduce the temperature by 20˚C. | We use Australian tablespoons and cups: 1 teaspoon equals 5 ml; 1 tablespoon equals 20 ml; 1 cup equals 250 ml. | All herbs are fresh (unless specified) and cups are lightly packed. | All vegetables are medium size and peeled, unless specified. | All eggs are 55-60 g, unless specified.