Pizza is contested territory. Italians in Australia tend to be horrified by local takes on the classic dish, such as pineapple pizza, and defend the Neapolitan style tooth and nail.
But even back in Italy pizza quality is hotly debated.
The prospect of pizza made with seawater might sound like a bizarre fad to some, but the man who plans to introduce it to Australia is adamant his unusual recipe is rooted in tradition.
Hailing from Napoli, Ettore Bertonati came to Australia about six years ago. He arrived with a working holiday visa and then started to study to remain. In Italy he had graduated in chemistry but also worked as a pizzaiolo (pizza maker).
Over the last few years he has already made a name for himself in Adelaide, working in several restaurants.
Ettore Bertonati at home in his pizza kitchen Source: Supplied
Now he is working hard to launch his new venture, a restaurant called Madre, with local business partners, and seawater pizza will be the menu’s centrepiece.
Using seawater to prepare the pizza dough is a procedure with ancient origins, Ettore tells SBS Italian, because back in the day when salt was expensive poorer families used seawater to prepare their pizzas.
Ettore maintains this type of pizza also has health advantages.
"In seawater there is less sodium chloride and several elements that could enrich the dish – potassium, sulfates, magnesium, iodine."
Taste is impacted, perhaps coming across as more subtle, and Ettore is confident the South Australian clientele will embrace the novelty.
The sterilised seawater Ettore Bertonati uses in his seawater pizza Source: Supplied
The seawater Ettore will be using is imported from Italy, where the only company that treats seawater to be used for cooking purposes is found.
Australian-born Tony Mitolo is one of Ettore's business partners. Speaking of Ettore he says he has "complete confidence in his vision."
"I have never met anyone who is so passionate and knowledgeable about preparing pizza.”
Tony's Italo-Australian family has long been involved in food production and hospitality, and Ettore struck a quick bond with them.
"Ettore, in a sense, chose us, especially when he met my father”, Tony says, joking that Ettore has been unofficially adopted by the Mitolo family.
On SBS Italian’s Facebook page the reactions to Ettore’s interview have been mixed. One follower asks, “when will we get pizzas made with river water?,” while some comment “interesting!” and others invoke tradition.
But will Australians be more adventurous?
The pizzeria Madre is expected to open mid-June in Adelaide.
From left: Tony Mitolo and Ettore Bertonati Source: courtesy of Ettore Bertonati
