ክንዮ ቅዲ: ዕብይት ፋሽን ናይ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ኣብ ኣውስትራሊያ (ምንባር ኣብ ኣውስትራሊያ)

AUSTRALIA EXPLAINED - INDIGENOUS FASHION

Back in Blak Runway 2025 Source: AFP / WILLIAM WEST

ኣብ ኣውስትራሊያ ዝኾነ ግዜ እንተ ኣሕሊፍኩም ፣ እቲ ቅዲ ኣነባብራ ክሳብ ክንደይ ዝተዛነየ ምዃኑ ኣስተብሂልኩ ትኾኑ ኢኹም ። ኣብ ኩሉ ቦታታት ናይ ንጥፈት ኣከዳድና ፣ ክዳን መሕንበስን ናይ ዉድራት ብራንድ ከምኡ "ውን ተራ ክዳውንቲ ኸተስተብህል ትኽእል ። እንተኾነ ካልእ ወገን ናይ ኣውስትራሊያ ፋሽን ኣሎ ። ነደፍቲ ዲ ስቦርጂናውያንን ቶረስ ስትረይት ኣይላንደራትን ፡ ንኣሽሓት ዓመታት ክዳውንትን ናይ ኣገልግሎት ነገራትን ክፈጥሩ ጸኒሖም እዮም ፣ ሎሚ እውን እቲ ዕዮ ኣዝዩ ህያው እዩ ። ኣብ መጕየዪ ቦታታት ፡ ኣብ ዓለምለኻዊ ወፈራታት ፋሽንን ኣብ መዓልታዊ ኽዳውንትን ክትርእዮ ዝከኣል እዩ ። ኣብ ቀሞት ህዝብታት ዘሎ ፋሽን እተፈልየ ዝገብሮ እንታይ ምዃኑ ፡ ምስ ኣከባቢ ብኸመይ ከም ዘራኽብ ፡ ክትክደኖ እንተ ደሊኻ ድማ እንታይ ከተስተብህል ከም ዘሎካ ንምፍላጥ ዝተዳለወ ትሕዝቶ ኣብዚ ቀሪቡ ኣሎ ።


ቅድሚ መግዛእቲ ኣውሮጳውያን፡ ኣብ ኣውስትራሊያ ዝነብሩ ዝነበሩ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ንኽሊማ ፣ ከባቢኦምን ኣነባብራኦምን ዝሰማማዕ ክዳን ይሰርሑ ኔሮም ። እቲ ሽዑ ሰባት ዝኽደንዎ ዝነበሩ ክዳውንቲ ፡ መንነቶምን ካበይ ከምዝመጹን ዘርኢ እዩ ነይሩ ።

ብዙሓት ነደፍቲ ቅዲ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ፡ ሎሚ እውን እንተ ኰነ በዚ መገዲ እዚ ንፋሽን ይርእዩዎ እዮም ፣ እዚ ከኣ ታሪኽ ፡ ባህልን ሓልዮትን ሃገር ኣብ መዓልታዊ ህይወቶም ከም ዝርእይዎ ዝገብር እዩ ።

AUSTRALIA EXPLAINED—FIRST NATIONS FASHION
You can see Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander fashion at national events like Australian Fashion Week. Credit: Rob Hookey/Getty Images

ንነዊኅ እዋን ናይ ኣቦርጂናልን ቶረስ ስትሬት ኣይላንደራትን ፋሽን ኣብ ቀንዲ መራኸቢ ብዙሃን ሳሕቲ ዝርአ እዩ ኔሩ ። ምዕራባዊ ቅዲ ምኽዳን ክዳን ግና ብሚሽናት ፡ ኣብያተ ትምህርትን ፖሊሲታት መንግስትን እዩ ዝድፋእ ነይሩ ፡ ቀዳሞት ኣህዛብ ግና ንባህላዊ ክዳውንቲ ህያው ኮይኑ ክጽል ኣብ ሕብረተሰቦምን ኣብ ጽንብላትን ከንጸባርቕዎ ጸኒሖም ።

ኣብ ዝሓለፈ ዓሰርተ ዓመት ፡ እዚ ክቕየር ጀሚሩ እዩ ። ሕጂ ነደፍቲ ቅዲ ኣለባብሳ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ኣብ መላእ ዓለም ብሓበን ክርአ ኣኽኢሎም እዮም ።

ኣብ ከም ናይ ኣውስትራልያ ፋሽን ሰሙን ዝኣመሰለ ሃገራዊ ኣጋጣሚታት ኣቦርጅናልን ቶረስ ስትራት ኣይስላንድ ፋሽን ኣብ ዓመታዊ ናይ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ዉድድራት ሃገር ከምኡ "ውን ኣብ ከም በዓል Vogue ዓበይቲ መጽሔታት ገበር ክትረክብ ትኽእል ኢኻ ።

Australia Explained - Indigenous Fashion
Caption: Artist and designer Grace Lillian Lee employs traditional Torres Strait Island weaving techniques to create her sculptural pieces, as showcased at Paris Fashion Week 2025. Credit: Foc Kan/WireImage/Getty Images

ዱንጉቱቲን ኣናዋን ፈጠራን መስራቲ ናይቲ ኣብ ኦንላይን ዝርከብ መስራቲት እያ ። ንሳ ኣብ ሲድኒ ኽትዓቢ ከላ ውክልናኣ ክሳዕ ክንደይ ውሱን ምንባሩ ትዝክር ።

ናታን ማክጉየር ዝስሙ ሞደል መስራቲ ፋሽን ዋንጁክ ኖንጋር ፡ ሞደልነት ኣብ ዝጀመረሉ እዋን ፡ ንሱ ጥራይ ኣቦርጅናዊ ከምዝነበር ይገልጽ ።

ሎሚ ፡ ኣብዚ ኢንዱስትሪ ብዙሓት ክኢላታት ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ይርኢ ኣሎ ።

"እዚ ብዛዕባ እቲ ኣብ ሃገር ዝርአ ዘሎ ህዝብና ፡ ጽባቐና እውን ዝምስገን እዩ ። ከም እትፈልጥዎ ከኣ ፡ ከምኡ እዩ ዝኸውን ዘሎ "ይብል ።

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Whadjuk Noongar model and Mob in Fashion founder Nathan McGuire. Credit: Nathan McGuire

ብዙሓት ናይ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ፋሽን ፡ ብዛዕባ ገዛእ ርእሶም ካብ ዛንታታት ዝብገሱን ምስ ሃገር ዝምድና ዘለዎም ተባሂሎም ይገልፁ እዮም ። ኣብዚ እታ 'ሃገር' እትብል ቃል ንመሬት: ማይ: ሰማይ: ማሕበረሰብ: ከምኡውን ባህሊ ተመልክት ።

ንድፊ መብዛሕትኡ ግዜ ምስ ፍሉይ ቦታታት ፡ ቋንቋታት ወይ ባህላዊ ቴማታት ይተሓሓዝ ።

ሕትመት ካብ ስነጥበብ በቶም ዝተኣመነሎምን ዝተኸፍለሎምን ቀዳሞት ስነጥበባውያን ዝመጽእ እዩ። ። ብዙሓት ብራንድ ቀስ እናበሉ ይሰርሑ: እዚ ድማ ነቲ ቀጻልነተንን ጽሬተንን ዝሕግዛ ንኣሽቱ ማሕበራት ይሕግዝ ።

ሊያንድራ ጋይካማንጉ ዝተባህለት ናይ Yolŋu creative ዳይረክተርን መስራቲ ናይቲ ሊያንድራ ዝብል መጸውዒ ዘለዎ ብራንድን: ዕላምኣ ባህሊ ብጋህድን ብዝዕድም ኣገባብ ንምክፋል ዝተሃንጸ ምዃኑ ትገልጽ ።

ኩሉ ግዜ ብሕብሪ ፡ ባህልን ሓጎስን ቀዳሞት ኢና ፡ ብሓቂ ፋሽን ካብ ማሕበረሰብና ወጻኢ ንዝኾኑ ካልኦት ሰባት ክፉት ዕድመ ንምግባር ይተቅም'ዩ ፡ በቲ ብራንድ ኣቢልና ድማ ብዙሕነት ናይ ኣውስትራሊያ መንነትን ባህላዊ እንታይነታን ዘንጸባርቅ እዩ ።
Liandra Gaykamangu

ካብ ፍለማኡ ኩሉ ትሕዝቶኣ ዛንታ ኣለዎ ። ኣብ ኣከዳድና ወይ ኣብ ካምቻ ዘሎ ኣሰራርሓ ንጽባቐ ጥራይ ኣይኮነን ዝግበር - ብዛዕባ ባህሊ ፡ ታሪኽ ወይ ማሕበረሰብ ዝርርብ ዘልዕል ክኸውን ይኽእል ።

ብዙሓት ነደፍቲ ቅዲ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ንዕዮኦም ከም ኣካል እቲ ምስ መሬትን ጥሪትን ዘለዎ ዝሰፍሐ ርክብ ገይሮም እዮም ዝርእይዎ ። ልምድታት ባህላዊ ኣከዳድና ፡ ነቲ ዘድሊ ጥራይ ኣብ ምጥቃም ፡ ንእንስሳታትን ኣትክልትን ኣብ ምኽባርን ወቕትታት ኣብ ምርዳእን እተመስረተ እዩ ነይሩ ። ዘመናውያን ብራንድ ነዚ ኣተሓሳስባ እዚ ምስዚ ሕጂ ዘሎ ኣገባብ ቅዲ እዮም ዝኽተልዎ ዘለዉ ።

ያቱ ናይ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ፍልጠት ንለውጢ ኣየርን ከባብያዊ ጉድኣት ንዝስዕቡ ምላሽ ክህቡ ንዝፍትኑ ኢንዱስትሪታት ወሳኒ እዩ ኢላ ትኣምን ። "ነደፍቲ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ፡ ንሃገር ኣብ ግምት ዘእተወ መኽሰብ ዝርከቦ ኣብያተ ንግዲ ንምፍጣር ይጽዕሩ ኣለዉ" በለት ።

እዚ ከኣ ንጠቀምቲ ፡ ንባህሎም ዝድግፍ ክዳውንቲ ምምራጽ ፡ ንነዊኅ እዋን ዝጸንሕ ጥንቁቕ ሜላ ኣሰራርሓ እውን ዘጠቓልል እዩ ።

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Yatu Widders Hunt, founder of online community Aus Indigenous Fashion. Credit: Yatu Widders Hunt

ቍጽሮም እናወሰኸ ዝኸይድ ዘሎ ናይ ኣቦርጂናልን ቶረስ ኣይስላንደራትን ላባራቶሪታትን ስቱድዮታትን ኣብ እቲ ናይ ፋሽን ኢኮሲስተም ዝኽፈሎ ስራሕ መገዲ ይፈጥሩ ኣለዉ ።

ሊያንድራ ዕላምኣ ንናይ ርሑቕን ዞባን ማሕበረሰባት ምስ ናይ ኢንዱስትሪ ደረጃ ዕድላት ንምርኻብ ትጥቀመሉ ። ብፕሮጀክትታትን ሽርክነትን ኣቢላ ፡ እቲ መጸውዒኣ ነቶም ዝወጹ ሰብ ፈጠራታት ተመኩሮ ከጥርዩን ሓጊዝዋ እዩ ፣ "ኣብ ላዕለዋይ ትካላት ኣውስትራልያ ሞዴላት ዝተፈራረሙ ኣለዉና እዮም ፡ ኣብ ኣህጉራዊ መድረኻት ዝበጽሑ ፡ ክንዮኡ ዝኸይድ ዘደንቕ ጎስጓሳት ንምሓዝን ቊጠባዊ ናጽነቶም ንምፍጣርን ክንርእይ ኪኢልና ኢና" ድማ ትብል ።

ያቱ ብ ሃገራዊ ደረጃ ፡ ናይ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ናይ ንግዲ ትካላት ቀንዲ ክፋል ናይ ቁጠባ ብምዃነን ደገፍ ክረኽባ ኣለወን ።

"ናይ ብሓቂ ምዕቡልን እናዓበየን ዝኸይድ ዘሎ ናይ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ናይ ንግዲ ጽላት ኣሎና ፡ ኣብ መላእ ሃገር ፡ እንተላይ ኣብ ርሑቕ ቦታታት ዝሰርሑ ዲዛይነራትን ስነ-ጥበበኛታትን ኣለዉና ፡ ስለዚ ፡ ናይ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ፋሽን ብምዕዳግ ፡ ትድግፍ ኣለኻ ማለትዩ ።"

ምስ ፋሽን ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ብኸመይ ብኣኽብሮት ከም እትራኸብ ምፍላጥ ኣጸጋሚ ክኸውን ይኽእል እዩ ። ገለ ቀለልቲ ምኽርታት እነሆ ።

ብዙሓት ናይ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ብራንድታት ፡ ‘ally friendly’, ዝብል ጽሑፍ ኣለዎ እዚ ማለት፡ ዝዀነ ይኹን ሰብ ክኽደኖ ከም ዝኽእል ብንጹር ዝገልጽ እዩ ።

ገለ ነገራት ፡ መብዛሕቱኡ ግዜ ንጽምብላት ወይ ፍሉይ ባህላዊ ዕማም ፡ ንኣብ ኣቦርጂናልን ቶረስ ስትራት ኣይላንደርስን ጥራይ መዓላ ዝውዕሉ እዮም ። እዚ መብዛሕትኡ ግዜ ኣብ ኦንላይን ወይ ኣብቲ ግዳን ምልክት ይግበር እዩ ።

ብዙሓት ብራንድታት ብዛዕባ እቲ ስነ-ጥበባዊ ፡ ብዛዕባ እቲ ሕብረተሰብን ብድሕሪ እቲ ንድፍን ዘሎ ዛንታን ሓበሬታ ኣብ ኢንተርነት ወይ ኣብ ቲ ንብረት የካፍሉ ።

ያቱ ፡ "መብዛሕትኦም ንድፊ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ፡ ንደቀባት ክጥቀምሎም ጥራይ ዘይኰነስ ፡ ንዅሉ ሰብ ክጥቀመሎም ዝፍጠሩ እዮም ። "ቀዳማይ ዛንታ ሃገራት ንኣውስትራልያዊ መንነት ዝምልከት መትከላዊ ስለ ዝዀነን ባህልና ኣዝዩ ለጋስን ምዉቕን ስለ ዝዀነን ፡ ሰባት በዚ ኺሕበኑ ስለ እንደልን ድማ ፡ ዘሐጕስ ይመስለኒ ።"

David Jones Indigenous Fashion Projects
David Jones Indigenous Fashion Projects show during Australian Fashion Week Source: Getty / Jason McCawley for AFW

ናታን ፡ ፋሽን ንሓደስቲ ስደተኛታት ምስ ቀዳሞት ህዝብታት ዜራኽቡሉ ዘመናውን ባህ ዘብልን ኣገባብ መስመር ከም ዝኾነ ይርኢ ።

ናይ መጀመርታ ናይ ሃገራት ፋሽን ከም ኣከዳድናና ቀሊል ብዝኾነ ነገር ኣኽብሮትን ምትእስሳርን እነርእየሉ መገዲ ክፈጥር ይኽእል እዩ ።

Subscribe to or follow the Australia Explained podcast for more valuable information and tips about settling into your new life in Australia.

Do you have any questions or topic ideas? Email australiaexplained@sbs.com.au

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SBS acknowledges the Traditional Custodians of Country and their connections and continuous care for the skies, lands and waterways across Australia.

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You're listening to Australia Explained, an SBS audio podcast helping you navigate life in Australia.

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Hello, I'm Lowanna Grant, executive producer of NITV Radio, and I'll be your host for this special episode of the Australia Explained.

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If you've spent time in Australia, you've probably noticed how relaxed the style is. You might notice activewear, surf brands and casual clothes everywhere. But there's another side to Australian fashion that many people don't hear about when they first arrive.

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Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander designers have been creating clothes and accessories for thousands of years, and that work is very much alive today. You'll see it on runways, in global fashion campaigns, and also in everyday clothing. In this episode, you'll learn what makes First Nations fashion different, how it connects to the environment and how you can support First Nations designers.

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Before colonisation, First Nations people across Australia developed clothing that suited their climate, environment and way of life. What people wore could show who they were, where they came from, and how they belonged. Many First Nations designers still see fashion in this way today as something that carries story,

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Culture and care for country into everyday life. For a long time, Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander fashion was rarely visible in mainstream media. Western style clothing was pushed through missions, schools, and government policies, while First Nations people kept cultural clothing alive in communities and ceremony.

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In the past decade, that has begun to change. One person who watched this change is Dunghutti and Anaiwan creative Yatu Widders Hunt. She is the founder of the online community Aus Indigenous Fashion.

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As I was a teen, I was also looking for ways to connect to my own identity and also to contemporary expressions of First Nations identity, and I found fashion was a really great

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way to do that. When I was like a teen, like it was just not even mentioned in fashion magazines at all. It wasn't really accessible to consumers.

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Today, First Nations designers, models, and artists are far more visible but on their own terms. Whadjuk Noongar model Nathan McGuire is the founder of Mob in Fashion.

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That's what it's all about. That's, you know, that's about our people being seen and our beauty being appreciated in the country.

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And you know, it's actually meant to happen.

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So what makes First Nations fashion different? Many First Nations labels describe themselves as story driven or connected to Country. Here, Country refers to land, water, sky, community and culture. Designs often linked to specific places, languages, or cultural themes. Prints come from artworks by First Nations artists who are credited and paid.

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Many brands also work slowly, releasing smaller collections that support sustainability and quality. One designer doing this work is Yolngu creative director Liandra Gaykamangu .

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She owns the resort wear label Liandra.

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We have always championed colour, culture, and joy, really using fashion as an open invitation for other people beyond our community to be able to engage and celebrate the diversity of Australia's identity and cultural nuances through the brand. We have always done our own custom prints, so from

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the very beginning I've always drawn our prints and every collection has a theme attached to it, and those prints then embody the theme.

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If you read the tag or check the website, you can often find a story about Country or community. Traditional First Nations clothing practises used only what was needed and showed respect for animals and plants. Today, First Nations brands bring these ideas into modern fashion.

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They choose better materials, reduce waste, avoid mass production, and build fair relationships with artists and makers. For consumers, buying from First Nations labels can support culture and the environment at the same time. First Nations fashion also creates jobs and skills. Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander owned labels support work for designers,

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models, stylists, photographers, pattern makers, and production teams. Liandra uses her brand to connect remote and regional communities with industry opportunities.

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I'm very passionate about remote and regional Australia, and so the brand is a pillar and a bit of a vessel to be able to tap into and out of remote and regional Australia for creative Indigenous people.

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We've had models signed to top Australian agencies, walk international runways, go on to book incredible campaigns beyond and create their own economic independence, then beyond what we sort of open the door to.

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For communities that have been excluded from industries, this kind of training and paid work can support strong careers.

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At a national level, Yatu notes that First Nations businesses are already a major part of the economy.

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It's important to support First Nations businesses as well. We have a really thriving and growing First Nations business sector. We have designers and artists working all across the country, including in remote areas, so you're also supporting First Nations business by buying First Nations fashion.

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If you're new to Australia, you might ask, how can I engage with First Nations fashion in a respectful way?

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Here are a few simple tips. Many First Nations brands clearly state when designs are ally friendly, meaning anyone can wear them. Some items, usually for ceremony or special cultural roles, are only for Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people. These are often clearly marked.

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Many brands share information about the artist, the community, and the story behind the design. Look on the tag or online. Yatu emphasises this.

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I'd say the majority of First Nations designers create work that is accessible to everyone, so not just Indigenous people, and I think is exciting because First Nations storytelling is actually central to Australian identity. And I think our culture's extremely generous

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and warm and we love and want people to feel proud of that and we see that as central to everyone's identity.

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Nathan sees fashion as a fun way for new migrants to connect with First Nations communities.

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It's another way to experience culture and share in all the different nations that make up this country's stories as an extension of what it is to be a part of Australian culture. This is a good way to

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engage with our community. I think there's so much exploration for that for people who are, you know, new to our country and want to get to know our people more, and they can do it in a really like modern cool way. And then there's also the really traditional, historical story. You get the best of those worlds in our fashion space.

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To get started, why not follow First Nations designers and models on social media or attend a First Nations runway show or exhibition.

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Or you could buy from First Nations owned labels, especially items marked ally friendly. It's a way to experience culture while also learning the deepest stories of this country through something we all share, the clothes we wear.

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Thank you for listening to this episode of Australia Explained, written by Nikyah Hutchings, edited by Melissa Compagnoni. Australia Explained managing editor is Roza Germian, and I'm Lowanna Grant. Until next time.

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This was an SBS audio podcast. For more Australia Explained stories, visit SBS.com.au/Australiaexplained.

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Subscribe or follow the Australia Explained podcast for more valuable information and tips about settling into your new life in Australia. Do you have any questions or topic ideas? Send us an email to australiaexplained at SBS.com.au.

END OF TRANSCRIPT

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