The often violent fight for West Papuan independence from Indonesia may be one of the most significant conflicts in the region, but it's also one of the least reported.
Now, 45 years on from the start of the uneasy union, SBS's Mark Davis has managed to get a visa to gain rare access to West Papua.
His guides were two former members of the armed West Papuan resistance movement who've become Indonesian citizens and now believe Indonesian rule is the way forward.
Mark Davis tells Ron Sutton he found much to suggest trouble continues to boil but he also saw signs of a true change.
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