Food has long been a key part of France's cultural influence -- one in three overseas tourists who have been polled cite food as a key reason for their trips there.
But many food experts suggest the globalisation of food has eroded that appeal.
France is now fighting back with a campaign it calls Good France, dispatching more than a hundred leading chefs abroad to show people what they are missing.
In the kitchen of Sydney's Sofitel Hotel, Michelin-honoured chef Xavier Mathieu is doing what he loves: cooking French food -- beautifully -- then arguing passionately for the need to preserve its essence.
(Translated) "The most important thing is to respect the seasons -- and, of course, traditional recipes."
Food writer Michael Symons explains the reputed French genius for cooking.
"If you want subtlety in a kind of temperate climate, cooking, they have been doing it well for a long time and have a lot of technique and training and knowledge of ingredients that makes their food very good."
But food experts see a clear need behind the French government's promotional drive, now in its second year, called Good France.
Michael Symons says the French have become the victims of their own success.
"They've been so successful, other people have adopted their tricks and have tried to do better. And chefs are sharing their secrets a great deal. So you have a global, high-end style, which I guess we call contemporary or something here?"
But Monsieur Mathieu, whose work has earned the coveted Michelin stars, disputes the idea globalisation has made French food less unique and special.
(Translated)"On the contrary.* Globalisation has been a way for French gastronomy to get better and export French cuisine outside the country."
Bistro Gavroche is a new restaurant on the Sydney scene.
Its head chef, Frederic Colin, says he is cautiously optimistic.
"The classical dishes will remain as the classical dishes, tradition remains tradition. This restaurant is set up not to be a timeless restaurant, not to be a concept. So we do, like, traditional onion soup here. We do the pate food ... You know, we have a strong tradition for charcuterie and cold cuts in France."
So can the Good France campaign work in Australia?
Chef and author Gabriel Gate says he sees substantial challenges.
"Australians don't always understand subtle flavour the same way as the French or the Chinese do. So they want the big statement, with big spice and a little bit too much sugar. You know, like the drinks are becoming sweet, the wines are sweet. The wines are very big. It's just ... to be honest, it's an Americanisation of this part of the world."
But French ambassador to Australia Christophe Lecourtier says he is confident there is enough room for everyone.
"So you have here, for instance, in Sydney, excellent chefs and excellent restaurants, with a great cuisine based on fusion -- Asian influences, Western influences. And that makes Sydney a very good place, in terms of restaurants. But on the other hand, the Old World, the old French cuisine, is more alive than ever."
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