In summer when the salty Atlantic sea breezes blow, the lure of the beaches beyond Lisbon is irresistible.
Taking the Linha de Cascais train line from the Portuguese capital, sun-lovers, swimmers, surfers and day-trippers can explore a slice of one of Europe's best coastlines.
Here are three destinations worth a visit along the Estoril coast.
CASCAIS
The resort town of Cascais doesn't boast beaches with big waves but it remains a magnet for day-trippers and holidaymakers. It possesses a pleasant harbour and a charming old town and, like its posh neighbour Estoril, it was once a hot spot for the international jet set as part of what was known as the Portuguese Riviera.
These days Cascais is a hub for bars and cafes along Rua Frederico Arouca. Joggers, cyclists and skaters now compete for space along a promenade linking the popular sandy beaches at Oeiras and Carcavelos. If you need some cooling off there are two small beaches, Praia de Rainha and Praia de Ribeira, nearby.
Foodies should be sure to pay a visit to the town's excellent fish market which is a reminder of Cascais' origins as a fishing village.
PRAIA DO GUINCHO AND THE BOCA DO INFERNO
This superb surfing beach is prime European coastline with waves rolling in from the Atlantic on golden sands framed by a mountain backdrop at the beach's end.
Being quite exposed makes Praia do Guincho a hub for kite- and windsurfing. Portuguese and European championships are held here to take advantage of the strong northern winds.
The beach is one of the largest outside of Cascais and is about five kilometres from the town.
On the way to Guincho be sure to stop at the rock formation known as "the mouth of hell" - the Boca do Inferno. This is a popular site, usually during storms, to watch spray shoot out from the chasm below, although on the day I visited the Inferno was anything but apocalyptic as waves pushed gently against the jagged rocks.
Apart from its natural spectacle, the Inferno is steeped in legend as the site where magician, astrologer and occultist Aleister Crowley faked his death in 1930.
Crowley left a note near the rocks and his "death" quickly gained currency with the help of Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa. Pessoa told the press he had seen Crowley's ghost the following day. There was international furore when the English mystic "reappeared" three weeks later in Berlin to launch an exhibition of his artworks.
The episode is commemorated by a plaque at the Inferno.
CABO DA ROCA
A visit to Cabo da Roca is worthwhile for breathtaking ocean views and to cross mainland Europe's westernmost point.
Taking a bus along the Marginal - the seaside road linking Cascais - you arrive at a windswept cliff where a crucifix monument and plaque defines the location as "... where the land ends and the sea begins".
Located at the edge of the Sintra mountains, this rugged cape with a lighthouse was known by the Romans as Promontorium Magnum and was once thought to be the "edge of the world" in the pre-exploration age.
Have a coffee at the tourist shop near the edge of the cliff and enjoy the Atlantic ocean crashing against the cape. Oh, and one more thing, expect it to be windy - very windy.
IF YOU GO:
GETTING THERE: Emirates operates 84 flights per week from Australia to Dubai with daily connections to Lisbon. Prices start from $A2055 for an economy fare. For further details visit emirates.com.au.
STAYING THERE: The Pensao Londres on Rua Dom Pedro V is situated on top of the Bairro Alto, with a panoramic view over Lisbon. Prices start from 25 euros ($38.24) for a single room with shared bathroom. Go to pensaolondres.com.pt.
For Cascais accommodation information visit cascais.net/guide or try estoril-portugal.com.
PLAYING THERE: Regular trains run on the Linha de Cascais from Lisbon's Cais do Sodre station stopping at Estoril before reaching the end of the line at Cascais.
Praia da Conceicao is the largest beach at Cascais while right in the centre of town are the smaller swimming beaches of Praia da Rainha and Praia da Ribeira.
There are hourly buses running from Cascais train station to Praia do Guincho. Several restaurants overlook Guincho but Mar do Guincho is the pick with its superb views and a seafood-dominated menu featuring sea bass, turbot and red mullet. Expect to pay about 25 to 30 euros ($A38.20-$A45.84) for a main course. For more visit mardoguincho.com.
To visit Cabo da Roca take the 403 bus from Cascais train station for a 25-minute trip along the coast. For ticketing information and timetables visit scotturb.com.
* The writer travelled at his own expense.
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