Giorgio Armani's collection for next winter - a palate of greys with a flash of lime - is aimed not at the fashion icon, but her next-door neighbour.
Yet, the designer said on Monday, the focus on spectacles at fashion shows by many of his colleagues and the media distorts expectations.
"When in September, a woman wants to see in the stores something she saw in the newspaper, and she doesn't find it, this is bad for everyone," Armani told reporters after his womenswear preview for next winter on the last day of Milan Fashion Week.
"It makes us look ridiculous and seem like those who want to stun at all costs," he said.
Women who visit Armani shops this year will find a new daytime trouser that is ankle-length and softened with pleats - similar in comfort to the pants he unveiled last week for his Emporio Armani line aimed at younger customers.
The looks are predominantly grey, a colour he chose because different shades of grey "are pretty together" and lime, which he said "excites".
Grey suits pair the new trouser with single-button jackets brightened with a lime flash on the lapel. Green stripes down the side of pants signaled a sportier look.
Armani is one of the few designers to elicit applause during his show and one piece that drew it here was a wispy grey fur that appeared lit by lime. It was worn over a slip-like sage dress and paired with a squared green clutch.
Evening dresses were strapless sheaths with lime stones or stripes of green and black ribbon that gave them a modernist edge.
Handbags included lime-and-black clutches, top-handle doctor's bags and soft, roomy daytime bags in black with lime highlights. Shoes were feminine pumps with a skinny heel or lace-up booties.
