The world’s most volatile border: Korea’s Demilitarised Zone, where tourists flock

The tourist trade continues at the DMZ as Koreans ponder the conflict.

Korean DMZ

Ribbons pinned to a barbed wire fence inside the DMZ near the North Korean border. Source: Myles Morgan, SBS

Haneul Kim sighs somberly as he looks at a worn Russian rifle at a museum inside Korea’s Demilitarised Zone (DMZ).

The museum is filled with old weapons and reminders of the Korean War – which technically never ended as a peace treaty is yet to be signed.

Only a few kilometres away is North Korea, one of the world’s most unpredictable and potentially dangerous nations.

“Most South Korean people don’t want a reunion with them because we have to free them,” he said.

“They’re so poor. Most of us, maybe more than 65 per cent, most of us want a collapse [of North Korea].”
Korean DMZ
The DMZ is very popular with Chinese tourists. Source: Myles Morgan, SBS
He has completed his two years compulsory service in the Republic of Korea Army, attached to the Korea Augmentation to the United States Army.

But inside and outside the military, every Korean lives with the knowledge that North Korea poses a possible existential threat with its nuclear weapons program.

In early September, the North conducted its fifth nuclear test, detonating a bomb with an apparent yield of 10 kilotons.
A war with North Korea isn’t impossible but Haneul Kim hopes he never sees it.

“The best thing is it not happen,” he said. “We want peace, everybody wants peace.”

The formula for success

In the South Korean capital of Seoul, about 50 kilometres from the truce city of Panmunjom and one of the main DMZ checkpoints, Professor Bong-geun Jun reflects on his long history trying to disarm North Korea.

“We could say it’s probably the lowest moment between the two Koreas,” he said from inside the Korea National Diplomatic Academy.

Along with the North’s nuclear tests and a breakdown in dialogue between the two Koreas, there are other things to be concerned about according to the Professor who has crossed into North Korea approximately 10 times.

“They are diversifying their launch systems; usually, missiles could be launched from a fixed site,” he said.

“Recently, they test fired a medium- to long-range missile using a mobile truck.”
Korean DMZ
South Korean soldiers greet tourists at the DMZ. Source: Myles Morgan, SBS
The official policy response to North Korea is the Korean National Community Unification Formula.

Its priorities are co-operation and reconciliation, establishing a Korean commonwealth and unifying the peninsula.

But it is not straightforward.

South Korea is balancing the interests of the United States, China and other Asian countries in responding to the North.

“Tension between China and the US over the Korean peninsula and north-east Asia will keep going on,” according to Dr Jin-Yong Lee at the KNDA.
Korean DMZ
A young boy looks into North Korea. Source: Myles Morgan, SBS
Political tensions were raised this week as the United States government revealed it wants to place its THAAD missile interception system in South Korea as soon as possible.

“China is afraid this THAAD system is part of a US military network that can be used against them,” Professor Jun said.

“At the same time, China is an important economic partner so the Republic of Korea will continue to search for the economic cooperation with China,” Professor Lee added.

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The only seemingly predictable thing between North and South Korea is the unpredictable relationship.

It’s a state of play that experts in Seoul are used to.

“The current system North Korea has is not survivable anywhere in the world,” Professor Jun told SBS.

“Reunification could come in a month, it could come in ten years.”

Until then, Professor Jun said Australia could play a unique role.

“You are not a superpower, you are a mediumpower with a strong softpower,” he said.

“We can always see your strong interest and know you want to have a presence in the region. I think we can use that for our benefit for the peace and prosperity of the region.”
Korean DMZ
Ribbons hang from a wall inside the DMZ near the North Korean border. Source: Myles Morgan, SBS
Myles Morgan travelled to the Korea as part of the 2016 Australia-Korea Journalist Exchange Program. He was assisted by the Walkley Foundation and the Korea Press Foundation.


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By Myles Morgan


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