An ex-monk is behind the pans at this Tibetan restaurant

Wild Yak’s momos are good, but it’s the soup with hand-pulled noodles that you absolutely need to order.

Owner Nagawang Tobchen Gophe hand-pulls noodles to order. Source: Audrey Bourget

This article was originally published in 2019. Wild Yak is currently closed.

There’s a story behind every restaurant, and in the case of Wild Yak, a Tibetan restaurant in Northcote, it’s an especially interesting one.

The current owner, Ngawang Tobchen Gophe, was born in Tibet to a farming family. “We had animals like yaks, cows, sheep, goats and horses. We also grew barley, wheat and lentils,” he tells SBS Food. “We’d get milk from the animals and make cheese and butter. We used their wool to make clothes. If we needed something, we’d exchange barley or cheese or butter or meat.”

Gophe joined a monastery to study philosophy, but after a decade as a monk, the Chinese authorities arrested him. Since the beginning of the occupation of Tibet in 1950, China has been known to exert control on Tibetan culture and Buddhist religious practices. “They put me in jail one year and when I was released, I was not allowed to go to the monastery,” he says.

He fled Tibet and arrived in Melbourne in 2002, determined to keep his culture alive. Involved with the local Tibetan community, he taught history and practised calligraphy. He also started selling momos (Tibetan dumplings) at markets around Melbourne.

The momos - fried or steamed - are served with soy sauce and a homemade chilli sauce. Source: Audrey Bourget

In 2013, he took over Tibetan restaurant Wild Yak when owner Dorje Wolok retired. First named Tibet Himalaya Restaurant in 1990 and located in Fitzroy, the eatery moved to Northcote in 2005. Gophe is now charge, helped by his wife, two daughters and son-in-law.

The menu hasn’t changed much in the last three decades. The momos, probably the most famous Tibetan dish, are a sure bet. They are filled with beef (the closest to the original version with yak), vegetables or cheese, and can be eaten steamed, fried or in a soup. If you can’t get enough, you can buy Wild Yak frozen momos to take home.

Gophe makes the hand-pulled noodle for the thenthuk to order. Source: Audrey Bourget

You’ll also want to order the hand-pulled noodles. You could have them in a stir-fry, but they are even better in the soup, which is called thenthuk. Originating from the Amdo region, it was created to keep travellers warm during cold winters. The broth is rich, thanks to crushed bones, white radish and tsampa (roasted barley flour). The noodles are cooked in the broth with vegetables and your choice of beef or chicken.

“When the customer orders, we start making the dough for the noodles, then we pull them and cook them. It takes a bit longer because they are made fresh,” says Gophe.

Solo means chilli and the solo dishes, like this sha solo, pack a punch at Wild Yak. Source: Audrey Bourget

Stir-fries, curries and soups complete the menu. If you like heat, order one of the solo (chilli) dishes.

To finish, try the deep-fried momo filled with chocolate or the tsampa truffles, which combine the roasted barley flour with chocolate and coconut.

Fried chocolate momo with ice cream. Source: Audrey Bourget

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Wild Yak

350 High Street, Northcote, VIC

Mon – Sun 5:30 – 10:30 pm

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