Film star Gérard Depardieu, who famously renounced his French citizenship and now holds a Russia passport, recently told Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera that he values Italy’s sense of its own identity over France’s increasingly Disneyland stereotype.
He’s also a big fan of Italy’s unfussy cuisine, something he tucks into with gay abandon alongside best friend and chef Laurent Audiot in the beautifully shot, hunger-inducing food doco Bon Appetit! Gerard Depardieu's Europe (Saturdays 5.30 on SBS, and via SBS On Demand).
As a self-proclaimed citizen of the world, Depardieu shares his joy of local fare, traversing the continent with gusto and a lot of snorting and sniffing while filling his proudly ample belly.
What's it all about?
Bon Appetit! Gerard Depardieu's Europe
Episodes four and five of Bon Appetit! Gerard Depardieu's Europe (Saturday December 24 and 31) see the pair travel the length and breadth of ‘lo stivale’ (the boot), a country he’s spent a great deal of time in over the course of his film career, including starring in Bernardo Bertolucci’s epic historical drama 1900.
Kicking off in the south, Depardieu and Audiot visit a bull farm in Capaccio where they learn how to make mozzarella. Buffalo milk has more protein and no carotene, which apparently makes it easier to digest.
Achieving the best flavour requires happy beasts, with the smarter than cows buffalos having ample space to wander, the ability to choose when they want to be milked and even to take a shower. Introduced to one called Berlusconi, Depardieu cheekily suggests naming another Hollande.
Moving on to Campania, where the cuisine has been greatly influenced by a series of invasions, including the Romans, the French and the Spanish, the volcanic soil on Mount Vesuvius’ slopes, rich in potassium, has produced a wide variety of greens specific to the area, like Friarielli, great in salads or on pizza.Greens were traditionally seen as a sign of wealth, due to land ownership, with seafood more common.
Moving to Naples, arguably the birthplace of pizza, they celebrate a great community tradition where those who are comfortably off have their morning espresso and then pay for one extra, so that anyone with less in their pocket can come in and ask if there’s one ‘on hold’.
Legend has it that the famous Margherita pizza was created in Naples shortly after unification, during a visit from King Umberto I and Queen Margherita of Savoy, when chef Raffaele Esposito and his wife created it to honour the colours of the Italian flag.
Depardieu’s tickled by the centuries-old technique of drying fresh pasta, originally done outdoors in the wind and sun, but now by giant fan-forced ovens thanks to industrialisation, both a boon and a curse, what with pollution forcing things indoors.
The bon gourmands then visit a rabbit farm on the volcanic island Ischia overlooking the Bay of Naples, where the little critters are kept in semi-captivity, encouraged to burrow into the rock by pre-dug holes within runs. Fed on aromatic herbs, it has a wonderful effect on the flavour of the meat.
They also find time to indulge in some limoncello and Colatura di Alicsauce fish sauce, made from anchovies salted in wooden barrels called terzingi for up to two years.
In episode five Depardieu and Audiot head north, where they meet one of the world’s most celebrated olive oil producers, Franco Bardi, who harvests early in October, rather than the more common November-January window. He insists that olive oil should never be used to cook, as heat destroys the flavours.
Then on to Langhirano, Parma, for the world-famous ham, cured on giant sliding doors in huge warehouses, exposed to the foggy mountain air and the aroma of native trees. A bone needle is used to pierce the ham and smell the scent to ascertain if it’s ready. At Polesine Zibello, culatello salami is dry cured in vast cellars that also contain great rounds of Parmesan, with prime selections held aside for VIP clients including Prince Charles.
Source: Bon Appetit! Gerard Depardieu's Europe
Visiting the queen of Italian slow food Gemma Boeri at her Trattoria da Gemma in Roddino, with one of the world’s most in demand reservation lists, she insists that fresh pasta must always be rolled with a pin, so as not to damage it. After that there’s time for a spot of truffle hunting on the full moon, then Depardieu and Audiot wash it all down with a glass or two of Barolo before bidding arrivederci to Italy.
Bon Appetit! Gerard Depardieu's Europe is on Saturdays at 5.30pm on SBS, and also available on SBS On Demand. You can also watch some of Gérard Depardieu's most loved films right now on SBS On Demand.
