How to fill a madeleine

Fillings such as custard, ganache, buttercream and jam can transform the simple madeleine. Here's how to easily remove a section and fill the hole.

Using a sharp apple corer gives a clean cut for filling a madeleine. Credit: Quadrille / Michael Gardenia

Filling a madeleine transforms it from a humble sponge into something layered and full of character. Sometimes the filling is hidden as a surprise in the centre; other times, it becomes part of the decoration.

Ginger bear madeleines. Credit: Quadrille / Michael Gardenia

This ginger bear recipe fills soft, spiced bear-shaped madeleines with creamy speculoos genache.

No matter the style, the method is nearly always the same. Here’s how we do it.

Choose your apple corer

A thin, sharp apple corer works best – it gives you a clean, controlled cut without tearing the sponge.

Dig from the front or the hump

Twist the corer gently left and right as you press into the madeleine. You can enter from either the front face or the hump side, depending on the design. Stop at about 80 per cent depth – don’t go all the way through.

Use an apple corer to cleanly remove some of the madeleine. Credit: Quadrille / Michael Gardenia

Remove the core

Pull out the sponge plug carefully. If it doesn’t come out all at once, you can always use a toothpick to dig out a bit more. Some recipes call for keeping it to reseal the madeleine later, while others don’t require it.

Fill with care

Use a piping bag or a squeezy bottle (especially for jam or thinner fillings). Your filling should be soft enough to pipe easily but thick enough to hold its shape. If it’s too runny, it’ll sink or disappear into the sponge.

Piping filling into a madeleine. Credit: Quadrille / Michael Gardenia

Top-up if needed

Jam and curd tend to sink slightly after a few minutes – they get absorbed by the crumb or settle into air pockets inside. After your first fill, wait 2 – 3 minutes, then top it up again so the surface sits flush.

Replace the core (if required)

If the recipe calls for sealing the filling, trim the reserved core down to about 1cm (½in) and gently press it back into place. This gives a smooth finish and locks the filling inside.

Madeleines with filling are best enjoyed on the day they are made. You can freeze madeleines filled with ganache or jam, but not custard-based fillings, as this would affect the texture over time.

On some madeleines, the core is replaced after filling. Credit: Quadrille / Michael Gardenia

This is an edited extract from Madeleines by Hyoju Park and Rong Yao Soh, published by Quadrille. Available in stores nationally from 24 February. Photography by Michael Gardenia.